Raphael Brion
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Belgian in Texas. Critic at @startribune. Ex-F&W Restaurant Editor. Previously @infatuation @wirecutter @eater & @eatmedaily
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Articles by Raphael Brion
At Gus Gus, becoming a regular is part of the appeal
At Gus Gus, becoming a regular is part of the appeal The menu at Gus Gus in St. Paul has a core of favorite dishes, including a cheeseburger and fries, center, and (clockwise from left) grilled prawns, gem lettuce salad and heirloom tomatoes. (Leila Navidi/The Minnesota Star Tribune) The St. Paul neighborhood restaurant makes a compelling case for consistency, from caviar-topped chips to smash burgers and Hamm’s. Address: 128 Cleveland Av. N., St. Paul.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
The tuna melt at Heather's in Minneapolis is a mix of tuna, mayo, olives and artichoke hearts under a layer of melted Muenster cheese. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share There are plenty of great seats at Heather’s Cafe, the six-year-old eatery in Minneapolis. But I lucked out with the best possible scenario when meeting a friend for lunch last week with two bar seats in view of the kitchen.
The secret behind chef Ann Ahmed’s beloved basil wings
The secret behind chef Ann Ahmed’s beloved basil wings Chef Ann Ahmed's signature Basil Wings are served at each of her three restaurants, including Gai Noi. (Jeff Wheeler/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Served at Gai Noi, Lat14 and Khaluna, the chef’s signature wings have barely changed in nearly 20 years. This is part of an occasional series that tells the story behind classic dishes at Minnesota restaurants.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
The planchadita is a corn tortilla that's dipped in chipotle sauce, filled with carnitas, folded into a taco shape, and cooked on the griddle until crisp. (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share A couple of weeks ago, I went on the Taco Tour on Lake Street, which was just an excuse to check out a bunch of taquerias I’ve been meaning to visit.
Five months in, Aubergine is showing flashes of something extraordinary
Five months in, Aubergine is showing flashes of something extraordinary A selection of dishes from Restaurant Aubergine in St. Paul (clockwise from bottom left): New York strip with heirloom tomato and Stilton, Grilled Zucchini with crème fraîche and onion rings, the Appetizer Sampler à l'Aubergine, Wax Bean Salad, and Pâte en Croûte.
The 5 best things our food writers ate across Minnesota this week
The strawberry mille-feuille at New Scenic Cafe celebrates the French puff pastry dessert and the Minnesota seasons. (Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Every time I’ve been to New Scenic, it’s full of lovely surprises. And chef/owner Scott Graden’s play on the French layered pastry mille-feuille celebrating the season’s bounty is no exception. A thin, rectangular slice of strawberry cake forms the base for a subtly sweet, silky mascarpone crème diplomat.
The essential Kramarczuk’s: 11 dishes to order at the Minneapolis institution
The essential Kramarczuk’s: 11 dishes to order at the Minneapolis institution With classics like Polish kielbasa, pierogis, cabbage rolls, bigos, and borshch, it can be difficult to pick a favorite at Kramarczuk's, so you should try them all. (Leila Navidi/The Minnesota Star Tribune) From handmade pierogies to towering tortes, a guide to the classics (and a few secrets) at the James Beard-honored landmark.
The 5 best things our food writers ate in the Twin Cities area this week
Shuang Cheng's walleye in black bean sauce is a standout dish from the venerable Cantonese restaurant near the U of M. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share It’s back-to-school season, and for some students, that might mean lunchboxes. For others, especially those lucky enough to spend their September around the University of Minnesota campus, that can only mean one thing: Shuang Cheng.
Four-star Myriel excels at the art of focused simplicity
Four-star Myriel excels at the art of focused simplicity A trio of late-summer dishes — Red Lake walleye, Wild Acres duck breast and crushed gold potatoes — from Myriel in St. Paul. (Alex Kormann/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Behind the understated food at Karyn Tomlinson’s St. Paul restaurant lies a complex network of farmers, teamwork, butchery, preservation and exacting technique.
The 5 best things our food writers ate in Minnesota this week
House of Huế in Minneapolis serves up top-tier pho. (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share House of Huế, the stand in Eat Street Crossing, specializes in Bún bò Huế, the spicy, lemongrass-forward Vietnamese beef noodle soup that my colleague Nancy Ngo called the “kicky cousin to pho.” But don’t overlook the pho ($16.95).
Risata Cucina brings old-school joy to Robbinsdale
Risata Cucina brings old-school joy to Robbinsdale Among the dishes at Risata Cucina in Robbinsdale (from right): Chicken Parmesan, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Pork Chop, Rigatoni alla Vodka, Smashed Potatoes and Peach & Tomato Bruschetta. (Leila Navidi) The welcoming new Italian American restaurant has housemade pasta, clever drinks and plenty of ambition. Address: 4168 W.
The 5 best new-to-us fair foods our writers ate this week
A rare exercise in simplicity: the humble but mightily fresh cream puff at the Minnesota State Fair. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Because I spent most of my formative years in northern Minnesota, my childhood recollection of a State Fair visit is fuzzy. I do have a distinct memory, though, of my father trooping us to the cream puff stand.
The perfect food day at the Minnesota State Fair is actually two days
The perfect food day at the Minnesota State Fair is actually two days The Corn Roast is among the most popular stands at the Minnesota State Fair. (Alex Kormann/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Two seasoned fairgoers share their can’t-skip foods, secret shortcuts and the case for splitting your visit in two. Ask any Minnesota State Fair devotee to describe their perfect day, and you’ll get the same confession: One day isn’t enough. Not even close.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
The Gilda is a Basque snack that can be found all over Spain, and at Estelle in St. Paul. (Sharyn Jackson/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Four years ago, I came home from a trip to Portugal and immediately went to Estelle in St. Paul. This week, I came back from Spain and did the same thing. Clearly, this is how I deal with Iberian vacation withdrawal.
How the Silver Butter Knife Steak became Murray’s most iconic dish
How the Silver Butter Knife Steak became Murray’s most iconic dish From the pass at Murray's in Minneapolis, Wayne Bratvold is seen preparing to take a Silver Butter Knife Steak from the kitchen to the dining room. (Alex Kormann/The Minnesota Star Tribune) From meat cutter to tableside carving, a 28-ounce strip sirloin has been part of the identity of the downtown Minneapolis restaurant for generations.
The 5 best things our food writers ate (and drank) this week
Butter Chicken and Vegetable Chettinad (bottom right) are some of the Indian specialties at Tabla in Eden Prairie. (Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Tabla restaurant, the Orlando-based eatery with more than a dozen locations across the country, recently rolled out its first Minnesota outpost. Like the other locations, the one in Eden Prairie spotlights Indian and Indo-Chinese cuisine. Curries, tandoori and biryanis can all be found with vegan, vegetarian and meat options.
You asked, our restaurant critic answered your questions
You asked, our restaurant critic answered your questions Raphael Brion sifted through dozens of reader questions, from where to get the best fries and lemon bars to the one Minnesota food he still hasn’t tried. August 13, 2026 at 6:00AM The restaurant name is Le Burger, but the fries are one of our critic's favorites.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
Peach & Tomato Bruschetta at Risata Cucina in Robbinsdale (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share The airy, light-filled dining room at Risata Cucina, the Italian restaurant in downtown Robbinsdale, provides a fitting backdrop for the peach and tomato bruschetta ($12), a dish that tastes like sunshine.
The perfect order at Sweeney’s Saloon in St. Paul
The perfect order at Sweeney’s Saloon in St. Paul Sweeney's Saloon in St. Paul is great space to gather with friends. (Richard Tsong-Taatarii/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Scratch-made food, throwback prices and a welcoming neighborhood vibe keep these two regulars coming back to Sweeney’s more than 100 times. David and Elizabeth are avid bicyclists.
45 restaurants that shaped Twin Cities dining
We mark life’s major moments in restaurants — first dates, birthdays, anniversaries and retirements — and turn to them for comfort on hard days. The best restaurants become part of our stories. They enrich our neighborhoods and grow alongside us. This year we wanted to celebrate the longstanding businesses — those that have been open at least a decade — that nourish our nostalgia while giving new generations an opportunity to experience the dishes, dining rooms and people behind it all.
Minnesota's 45 most vital restaurants right now
A Bar of Their Own $ ($25 and under per person) A great sports bar is more than a place to watch the game. It's where a whole room gets to be a part of something bigger than one moment, inning or quarter. A Bar of Their Own is a fantastic spot to watch the Lynx dominate or cheer for the Gophers as those women show the nation what we Minnesotans are made of out on the court or field.
The Minnesota Star Tribune 2026 Pulitzer Prize for Breaking News
Karen Tolkkinen/The Minnesota Star Tribune When people think of summer vacations, cabin and lake country often come to mind. But the counties with no lakes are also great experiences. Super QuizTake this Super Quiz to a Ph.D. Score 1 point for each correct answer. Daily GamesExplore Popular Picks: Dive into Exciting Games Now! Baby BluesDaily comic from Rick Kirkman and Jerry Scott Cauliflower ice cream and drinkable salads could be on shelves soon. © 2026 StarTribune.All rights reserved.
‘We made it’: Six months later, Eat Street owners’ greatest strength is each other
‘We made it’: Six months later, Eat Street owners’ greatest strength is each other Alex Pretti’s memorial on Nicollet Avenue, also known as Eat Street, still looms six months later. (Aaron Lavinsky/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Grief, gratitude and unexpected bonds reshaped one of Minneapolis’ beloved dining corridors after the death of Alex Pretti.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
The Papa at Shepherds Table in Minneapolis. (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share On a recent visit to Shepherds Table in Minneapolis’ Longfellow neighborhood, I had a hard time narrowing down which sandwich to order. There were that many great options. The combo market/cheese shop/sandwich spot, which opened in September, focuses on Minnesota producers, and nearly every option sounded worth ordering.
The Minnesota Star Tribune 2026 Pulitzer Prize for Breaking News
Anthony Soufflé/The Minnesota Star Tribune It’s OK to worry about the Boundary Waters and Betty’s Pies. But people's homes are at risk too. Anthony Soufflé/The Minnesota Star Tribune It’s OK to worry about the Boundary Waters and Betty’s Pies. But people's homes are at risk too. Anthony Soufflé/The Minnesota Star Tribune Kenzie Edinger’s creative Italian restaurant in Woodbury is still finding its footing, but its handmade pastas and restless energy make it worth the trip.
At Liliana, pasta takes the scenic route
At Liliana, pasta takes the scenic route Pastas are where Liliana — and chef Kenzie Edinger's creativity — shines. The restaurant opened in Woodbury's City Walk development in July 2025. (Anthony Souffle/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Kenzie Edinger’s creative Italian restaurant in Woodbury is still finding its footing, but its handmade pastas and restless energy make it worth the trip.
14 Austin Starters That Are The Main Event
photo credit: Richard Casteel Starters, appetizers, tempting little snacks. Sometimes, they’re the best part of a meal. That first chew of a plump oyster, that inhaled slice of buttered focaccia. Nothing beats it. They’re a trailer for the meal ahead and, in fact, sometimes a starter is the main event. These seductive appetizers prove that Austin’s most memorable courses aren’t always main ones. Though you may need to reorder some of them on the spot.
The 7 best new ice-cold treats our food writers ate this week
Choco Taco at Galvan Foods & Tortilleria in St. Paul. (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share When Klondike discontinued the Choco Taco in 2022, it left behind a surprising number of heartbroken fans. Roberto Galvan and Angelica Diaz, the owners of Galvan Foods & Tortilleria, recently decided to fill that void by making their own Choco Taco ($8) version that’s both a tribute to the original and unmistakably Minnesotan.
Earn Up To $300 In Statement Credits at Austin’s Hottest Restaurants
photo credit: RICHARD CASTEEL At Infatuation, we have a lot of opinions about restaurants. Mostly, that we want you to eat at the hottest tables in town. Chase Sapphire Reserve is helping make that possible with access to exclusive reservations on OpenTable and up to $300 in annual statement credits at some of our favorite restaurants in Austin.
Bun appétit: Where to try the Twin Cities’ hottest new hot dogs
Bun appétit: Where to try the Twin Cities’ hottest new hot dogs From speakeasy secrets to pickle roll-up riffs, restaurants are giving the humble frank serious treatment across the metro. If you thought hot dogs were boring, you aren't ordering them at the right restaurants. (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share The hot dog is having a moment in Minnesota, and not just at backyard cookouts.
The 5 best things our food writers ate in the Twin Cities this week
Swedish wagyu meatballs are on the appetizer menu at the new Copper & Rye in Eagan. (Nicole Hvidsten/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share This new super-sized restaurant, just a stone’s throw from the Vikings’ Eagan training facility, has a little bit of everything. For seating, choose from the well-designed dining room, bustling patio or bar (with pulltabs!).
Bolé is the Twin Cities’ most joyful dining room
Bolé is the Twin Cities’ most joyful dining room The Tour of Ethiopia at Bolé takes the pressure off ordering by including many of its most popular dishes. (Leila Navidi/The Minnesota Star Tribune) This vibrant Ethiopian restaurant in St. Paul delivers bold flavors and a rewarding dining experience built around sharing. Address: 1341 N.
The Austin Chocolate Chip Cookie Power Ranking
photo credit: Richard Casteel When it comes to the ideal chocolate chip cookie, there are endless schools of thought. Thick or thin? Chewy or crispy? Are nuts allowed? How about brown butter? Ideological debates aside, we wanted to find out who makes Austin’s best chocolate chip cookie. So we conducted a blind taste test with 19 that were on our radar—mostly from bakeries, but also a handful from restaurants, like a couple of our favorite pizza places.
The perfect order at Brasa
Chris and Malory Van Guilder — and their dog, Rio — are frequent customers at Brasa's southwest Minneapolis location, and they all have their favorite orders. (Aaron Lavinsky/The Minnesota Star Tribune) After hundreds of meals, a Minneapolis couple — and their rotisserie chicken-loving dog — share the orders they swear by. Most people have a checklist when they buy a house. Good bones. Natural light. Top-rated schools. Walkable neighborhood. A big yard. Maybe a pool.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
Churros from La Cochinita food truck. (Raphael Brion/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share The food truck La Cochinita started in 2023 by co-owners Hailee Zentella, her husband, Armando, and his brother Flavio. Armando and Flavio grew up in Tabasco, Mexico. “There are so many options for Mexican food around, but hardly any options for Tabasqueño/Mayan cuisine,” Hailee said.
6 things that surprised me about Minnesota’s restaurant scene
6 things that surprised me about Minnesota’s restaurant scene After six months as the Star Tribune’s restaurant critic, the newly minted Minnesotan shares the dining habits, trends and traditions that have stood out most. Minnesota restaurants, including Hola Arepa in Minneapolis, do not mess around with patio season.
Juche in St. Paul pushes Korean comfort food to the edge
Juche in St. Paul pushes Korean comfort food to the edge The mac n' chi is Juche’s riff on classic American comfort food. It's shown with the Juche nachos, mapo fries and a selection of banchan and drinks. (Leila Navidi/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Chef Eddie Wu builds wildly inventive dishes — and obsessively refined classics — inside one of the Twin Cities’ most electric dining rooms.
Where To Eat On South Lamar
photo credit: RICHARD CASTEEL South Lamar is only technically a street. In practice, it's its own little territory crawling with enviable homes, shopping, worthwhile bars and music venues, and a handful of Austin's best restaurants—including our overall favorite. The area is always fun, but without the overcrowded scene that Downtown and the East Side can be. When you're looking for a good meal, head to one of these spots. Unrated: Restaurants we want to re-visit before assigning a rating.
This Classic Texas Barbecue Side Dish Saved My Ruined Cookout Original
When I moved to Texas, I thought smoking brisket in the rusty old backyard smoker would be easy. I didn’t expect a total barbecue fail — or that a tried-and-true side dish would save the day. I had relocated to Texas to live with my girlfriend, and our rental house came with an offset smoker in the backyard. It felt like an obligation for any new Texas resident to smoke meat in the thing. I thought, “How hard could it be to cook barbecue?
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week in the Twin Cities and beyond
Sushi tacos at Maruichi Udon in Eden Prairie come in several varieties, including salmon with avocado and tobiko roe. (Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share As the restaurant’s name implies, udon is the specialty at this restaurant. But it would be a shame not to seek out other menu items, especially the sushi tacos, at this fairly new addition to Eden Prairie’s fast-casual restaurant scene.
Why you should always order a table burger
Why you should always order a table burger The cheeseburger at P.S. Steak in Minneapolis is even better when shared with friends. (Alex Kormann/The Minnesota Star Tribune) How one simple coursing move can transform a regular dinner into a full-blown beefy occasion. I love a good burger. New or classic. Smashed, topped with kimchi mayo, or stuffed with cheese. Most especially when they come with fries.
9 great brunch spots to try right now
Brunch offerings at the Camden Social in Minneapolis. (Nancy Ngo/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Listen Print For many of us, brunch is much, much more than a meal. Rather, it’s a reason to kick back and enjoy a leisurely late-morning meal in the presence of your favorite company while lingering over eggs Benedict, table pancakes, mimosas and more.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week
Sambusas at House of Sambus in Minneapolis (Raphael Brion) Comment Gift Share Owner Abdi Abdiqani opened the tiny Somali cafe, House of Sambus, on West Broadway in the Near North neighborhood of Minneapolis back in January. It’s a short, tight menu, including Somali bur, various pastries, coffee drinks, Somali tea, as well as some tremendous beef and vegetable sambusas.
The perfect order at Hola Arepa in Minneapolis
The perfect order at Hola Arepa in Minneapolis The perfect brunch for two, according to one Hola Arepa superfan. (Anthony Soufflé/The Minnesota Star Tribune) From a solo dinner to a group patio hang to a boozy brunch, here’s a superfan’s guide to ordering at the festive Latin American-inspired spot.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week in the Twin Cities and beyond
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week in the Twin Cities and beyond Our dining diaries included BLTs and SLTs, a refreshing dessert with State Fair vibes, a food truck with Cambodian flavors and a relish tray that stole our hearts. Razava Bread Co.'s take on the BLT is made with salmon bacon. (Provided by Razava Bread Co.) Comment Gift Share What does a BLT lover do when his restaurant can’t serve bacon?
Hendrix & Siena is a brilliant restaurant with one big problem
Hendrix & Siena is a brilliant restaurant with one big problem French Onion Agnolotti at Hendrix & Siena in Hopkins takes the best of three classic dishes and spins them into one that should itself be a classic. (Renée Jones Schneider/The Minnesota Star Tribune) The stylish Italian restaurant in Hopkins excels at pasta, but stumbles with the pizza.
The 5 best things our food writers ate this week in the Twin Cities and beyond
Marty's Deli sausage egg and cheese breakfast sandwich on housemade focaccia is a handful. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Henry David Thoreau had to go into the wilderness to find his optimism for the potential of humanity living in harmony with the rhythms of the natural world. My moment of morning contemplation can be found on the corner of Lowry Avenue in Northeast — and it comes with the option to add hash browns.
Where To Eat & Drink In North Loop
photo credit: RICHARD CASTEEL North Loop is one of Austin's cooler neighborhoods—tons of vintage shops, funky old coffee spots, charming houses, and restaurants that are simultaneously boozy and family-friendly. Plus, it's one of the few truly walkable areas beyond Downtown and the East Side.
Brion: Please scan the QR code for your dining experience
Brion: Please scan the QR code for your dining experience The Walker Art Center’s split with Daniel del Prado put digital hospitality back in the spotlight. April 30, 2026 at 11:00AM Cardamom's abrupt move to replace full service with QR codes led the Walker Art Center to seek a new restaurant partner. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Comment Gift Share Listen Print We’ve all been there, fumbling to order with a QR code at a restaurant.
Bellecour: A love letter to the French bistro, written in brick and butter
Bellecour: A love letter to the French bistro, written in brick and butter Chef Gavin Kaysen at his newest North Loop restaurant Bellecour, which opened in December. (Leila Navidi/The Minnesota Star Tribune) Gavin Kaysen leaves the toque at the door and opens a neighborhood cafe in Minneapolis’ North Loop. Make no mistake. Bellecour is a French restaurant, and there will be butter.
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