by Janet K. Keeler; photos by Kate Walker It arrives from the kitchen on a toasted buttered bun and—if you’re lucky and the restaurateur is generous,—a golden slab of fish breaches the edges. The fish is fried because that’s the way you like it; a slice of yellow cheese melts into crannies. Crisp lettuce, a tomato slice, and tartar sauce bring more tastes and textures. It’s something to behold and you admire it as you reach for an ice-cold beer. Or maybe a Rumrunner, because you’re at the beach.