Saltimporten Canteen

Ingredients1 medium leek, white and pale-green parts only, halved lengthwise1 small head of cauliflower, cut into large florets, trimmings reserved4 cups whole milkKosher saltRecipe PreparationPreheat oven to 500°. Set vents to high and open a window for adequate ventilation. Place leek on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast until blackened, dry, and crisp, 70-90 minutes. Let leek cool. Break into shards. DO AHEAD: Leek ash can be made 3 days ahead.

Ingredients1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, or 3 15-ounce cans chickpeas, rinsed3 tablespoons olive oil2 large onions, coarsely chopped4 garlic cloves, chopped1 sprig thyme1/2 cup dry white wine4 cups vegetable brothKosher salt1 bunch broccoli, stems reserved for another use, cut into small florets tFlat-leaf parsley and fresh tarragon leaves (for garnish)Recipe PreparationIf using dried chickpeas, place in a medium bowl and add cold water to cover by 2-inch. Let soak overnight in refrigerator.