When Shanghai cài or ‘Shanghainese cuisine’ crops up in conversation, many will remark on how sweet it is. It took me a while to grasp what they meant, but Hu cuisine is definitely heavy on soy sauce and sugar. One of the best bowls of noodles in the city is proof of the average Shanghainese’s proclivity for sweetness: the sesame noodles or májiàng miàn (麻酱面) at Wei Xiang Zhai.