The water is cold – and clear. Half-hidden amid the palm-tufted grounds of the Temple of Seti I, this tiny, sacred, sunken lake on Luxor’s West Bank was once the domain of Ancient Egyptian priests. More than 3,000 years later, women from nearby villages still come, hoping its waters will serve as a fertility aid or a balm for their sick children, my guide Ahmed Hassan, who was born and raised on this side of the Nile, tells me.