Lucky Daye knows what he wants, but he doesn’t always allow himself to have it. He conducts experiments in self-control, exercising his ability to abstain from the things he loves most. Today, it’s french fries. It’s a balmy spring afternoon, and we’re having brunch at Bubby’s, a popular Tribeca restaurant. We’ve decided to share what feels like most of the menu: pancakes, fried chicken, avocado toast, and an eggs Benedict with smoked salmon.