When food manufacturers decide what to put on labels, they have one goal: to get you to buy the food. And the history of Americans’ diets can be read in the history of food labels. Whatever the villain du jour is, we get labels about its absence: fat, high-fructose corn syrup, GMOs, gluten, seed oils, artificial colors, sugar. And for the heroes, we get labels trumpeting their presence: fiber, protein, vitamins, whole grains. Tallow, God help us.