Vesma Mcquillan

A garden pavilion built for talks and concerts hosts Henrik Vibskov’s SS27 show in Copenhagen, before its final act as the centrepiece of his 25th-anniversary museum exhibition this autumn. FRAME’s take The Umbrico Spirals began life as a listening room: a black timber frame wrapped in red textile spirals, stretched over aluminium and left to react to Copenhagen’s weather. It was created to host talks, concerts and performances in Designmuseum Danmark’s garden back in June for 3daysofdesign.

Enjoy 2 free articles a month. For unlimited access, get a membership now. This season, the fashion show’s relationship with public space became impossible to ignore – as spectacular scenography collided with community displacement, environmental pressure and a European heatwave. For more than ten years, I have studied runway scenography because I believe fashion shows reveal possible futures of public space.

For SS27 Menswear, Prada filled Milan’s Deposito with a dense orthogonal grid of light. FRAME’s take In recent seasons, the fashion show set has increasingly become a medium and subject in its own right. With the opening of the exhibition Catwalk: The Art of the Fashion Show at the Vitra Design Museum, the interpretation and circulation of fashion show spaces have become one of the fashion industry’s dominant narratives.