Even travelling at a leisurely pace on board the MV Felicità, the Croatian islands come thick and fast. Between them – on water that veers from deep blue to turquoise – are craft of every kind: sailing boats, fishing boats, superyachts, plentiful ferries and, closer to shore, windsurfers, kayakers and paddleboarders. What you don't see much of on this cruise, outside the main ports of Split and Dubrovnik, are huge cruise ships.