Our first stop on a 10-day road trip through Slovenia was a weathered, wooden farmhouse whose owner, Aci Urbajs, called himself a farmer, a father, an artist, an anarchist and a winemaker. “You will see, I am crazy,” he said, greeting my partner, Brandi, and me as we got out of our rented Opel. Farmers built the house – which Urbajs now keeps as an informal guesthouse – centuries ago in eastern Slovenia on a hill called Rifnik, where today four Icelandic horses graze.