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Articles by Bootney Lee
MetaScent Launches the Hanadayori Collection
Australian perfume company MetaScent has recently launched a trio of perfumes under its Hanadayori Collection. This is a collaboration between MetaScent and the Melbourne Ikebana Festival to celebrate this year's theme named Hanadayori: Ikebana by Request 2023. Hanadayori is a Japanese word that means the flowers you have been waiting for have bloomed.
Hermès Un Jardin Après la Mousson: The Elation of Rained-Upon Soil and Spices
I am flirting with the cool-spicy scent of Un Jardin Après la Mousson d'Hermès for the upcoming expected-to-be-really-hot summer, a fragrance which is neither salty nor oceanic, but which gives instead the limpid feeling of rain very convincingly; it's named after the monsoons in India, after all. The thought is refreshing, if considered from a distance; the reality of living through a monsoon is probably another matter.
The Matin Lutens Collection: Spring Fragrances by Serge Lutens
After being disappointed with the L'Eau Collection, and even with some of Les Eaux de Politesse, I had absolutely no interest in Serge Lutens' new experiments. The Matin Lutens Collection was not something I wanted to try as soon as possible, because I didn't expect anything from them at all. But when I tried them I was suddenly captivated, although not as strongly as with those dense and complex fragrances for which I love Serge Lutens, however the Matins struck me with their beauty and depth.
Wild Colt Assaf: A Wild Stallion at the Carnival
The niche brand Assaf was born in Saudi Arabia in 2022. Several trial balloons, including Wild Colt, Miss Sakura, and Unicorn Spirit, were well received by the local market, and the secret of their success is simple. The company cooperates with the best perfume corporations in the world, which are well aware of the tastes of the Gulf and international markets.
Perfumed Horoscope: March 13 - March 19
The week before the equinox is the end of a natural cycle in the northern hemisphere. We are back again to the alpha point, springtime, and the return of biological life, differently in different parts of the world. As we should keep endings and new beginnings in our minds, we are looking into possible feelings of impatience this week. We wonder about its origins and suggest how to deal with it.
Montana Parfum de Femme — A Beautiful Gourmand Patchwork ~ Fragrance Reviews ~ Fragrantica
I am a devoted admirer of all things Montana. Not only do I collect vintage Claude Montana fashion, but most of all, I am obsessed with many Montana perfumes. Who can ever forget the iconic masterpiece Parfum de Peau? But there is also Parfum d'Homme, Montana 80, and many others. Some of them are not that important, of course, but in the brand portfolio there are famous gems, and some unsung ones, like the sweet and tender Parfum de Femme.
Philipp Plein: Plein Fatale Rosé
Following the launch of his first women's fragrance, Plein Fatale, fashion designer Philipp Plein presents its flanker Plein Fatale Rosé, which promises genuine seduction and instant charm to its wearer. "Feminine, sophisticated and sensual." Like all previous Philipp Plein fragrances, the new Plein Fatale Rosé was created by perfumer Alberto Morillas. The brand describes the composition as sparkling, floral-woody.
Fanfare Thameen London
A fanfare is a short ceremonial tune to introduce something important. Under the “artistic residency” of Christopher Chong, Thameen London has just announced the release of the first fragrance of The Britologne Collection, titled FANFARE. An amalgamation of the words British and Cologne, the classic cologne structure is re-imagined and magnified with complex accords.
Louis Vuitton Delivers Some Scintillating Modern-Day Chypres
Not everything from Louis Vuitton is worth smelling. Many scents in their line repeat tired commercial ideas with an accessory quality to them, mediocre in performance and lacking in material quality, aimed at luxury shoppers looking for a quick and thoughtless last-minute addition to their clothes haul. Some, however, deserve the time and effort to think about. Two novelties that caught my nose recently were Symphony and Rhapsody.
The Artistry Behind Natural Ingredient Fragrances. Part Two
I like it when perfume brands are focused not only on creativity and innovation, but also on sustainability. I have written about the artistry of the natural ingredients brands that I discovered at Esxence 2022, such as hima jomo, Nout, and Hiram Green, and I've felt since then that this is a trend in the world of fragrance. Hiram Green recently relaunched an almost perfect chypre that transported us to Shangri-La, the mythical land.
YSL Libre Le Parfum - A Tale of Three Skins
I will never turn my nose up at mainstream perfumery as long as it keeps producing little gems like Bottega Veneta, Narciso for Her, L'Interdit Rouge, to name but a few, and most recently: Libre Le Parfum. While I wasn't particularly impressed with its predecessors, I am with Le Parfum. It sings a similar tune to Libre, but instead of autotune, it is the orchestral version: Rich, dense, and satisfyingly deep in the base.
Eilish No.2 Perfume Review
Billie Eilish's perfumes have unique bottles, and I am certain she participated in their design not only as a model but also as a creative force behind their look. Only the young and pure can be so literal in shaping the bottle as herself to embody her perfume, throwing at us her undeveloped esthetics, desires, and insecurities... The massive bottles might be hideous but they are certainly one of a kind and look great in any setting, alone or with friends.
Rosendo Mateu's Nº 5 Floral, Amber, Sensual Musk: Smoky Vanilla Actually...
Marketing accounts for a lot of things in perfume launches, especially in the niche sector, but never more than in the simpler seeming offerings: those named after supposed ingredients. Most of the times, they're traitorous to the substances used, often they're traitorous to the olfactory impression they create upon smelling them as well. Rosendo Mateu's No.5 Floral, Amber, Sensual Musk is another such case.
Review: Solo Soprani by Luciano Soprani
Today's vintage review may disappoint some. Luciano Soprani, who is this? What are the famous fragrances released under the Luciano Soprani brand? Of course, the fame of this Italian designer cannot be compared with Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, or Versace. To some extent, he could blame himself for that. Defying the world of agriculture and starting a career in fashion, the designer worked for Max Mara for seven years (1967-1974).
Lazarus Douvos: The Love Note Collection
Elena's glowing review of hairstylist Lazarus Douvos' debut scent Rose 1845 mirrors my own feelings about the fragrance, too. It's a remarkable rose, so indulgent and rich it's almost gluttonous and disproportionate, yet keeps just within the boundaries of beauty and balance to retain a sense of splendour, marvel, and sumptuousness without smelling gaudy, bombastic, or crass.
Newer Powerhouses and Our Changing Expectations
Various terms are tossed about to describe the loudest of perfumes (beasts, room-clearers, fog horns, and others much less polite...) Most of us aren't really interested in being smelled from meters away, but some of us like some level of scented projection. But just as fashions change, so do ideas around what makes for "umph"; that hard-to-define impact that comes from statement-making fragrances that aren't subtle, which make a lasting impression, and a potent power.
Trussardi Levriero Collection Donna and Uomo Limited Editions For Holidays 2022
Style seen through a lens and a tireless search for elegance. This is the essence of Trussardi, a historical Italian brand founded in 1911. As Angelini Beauty shared with us: "These new limited editions of fragrances are the contemporary version of the scent formulas first created in 2011 - originally inspired by the iconic Trussardi Uomo and Trussardi Donna perfumes launched by the house in the 80s.
Patrizio Stella appointed new CEO of DESIRE Fragrances Group
Mr. Patrizio Stella Desire Fragrances Holding announces the appointment of Patrizio Stella as Group Chief Executive Officer. Patrizio Stella – officially joining the Group in September 2022 – will contribute to forging the Group’s new vision and will be responsible for implementing all business, marketing, and communication actions consistent with the Brands’ strategies.
TFWA 2022: Tommy Bahama Maritime Voyage ~ New Fragrances ~ Fragrantica
American island lifestyle brand Tommy Bahama stands for relaxed and sporty style in clothing, accessories and fragrances. Parlux wanted to capture the ease of the beach lifestyle with the brand’s fragrance collection of scents that are mostly fresh and casual. Among the fragrances previewed at this year's TFWA, Parlux presented Maritime Voyage, one that is now already available on the market.
Jean Paul Gaulter Collector Bottles of Classique and Le Male
Jean-Paul Gaultier's new limited editions are in the winter mood, fashionably dressed in winter puffer gilets in a bright red color with the bold golden Gaultier letters on them and golden buttons as well. The collector editions hold the same iconic juices of the original Classique Eau de Toilette and Le Male Eau de Toilette fragrances. CLASSIQUE COLLECTOR 2022 "What freezing cold! But what would the Gautier parties be without a corset?
Knights Fragrances - Swapping the Guitar for a Perfume Organ
German Guitarist Axel Rudi Pell, who has been providing new music for hard rock fans every two years with his eponymous band for more than 30 years, is venturing into new territory this year with the launch of his own line of perfumes. Under the name Knights Fragrances, the three limited edition fragrances Noble Forest, Shine, and Vanoir are currently only available exclusively via the brand's website. All three fragrances interpret the theme of wood with a different focus for each one.
Armani Si Passione Laser Limited Edition
Sandra Raičević Petrović Executive Editor, Writer and Designer Sandrina started her work on Fragrantica from the very beginning of the site. She has strongly participated in building the content as a perfume connoisseur and writer and has been responsible for the majority of the articles and encyclopedia records at Fragrantica, while nurturing communication with the brands.
Beautyworld Middle East 2022 (October 31- November 2, 2022, Dubai)
The region’s largest international trade fair for the beauty industry, BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST will be held at Dubai World Trade Centre from October 31st to November 2nd, 2022. As Messe Frankfurt, the organizer of this important event, shared, "In a dynamic, ever-changing sector like beauty and wellbeing, Beautyworld Middle East has remained the go-to trade show for an incredible 25 years and is all set to reassert its dominance this year.
Children’s Exhibition Scents "The Three Little Pigs"
In a move that speaks to the increasing interest and acceptance of scent in gallery spaces and public programming, leveraging fragrance as a tool for learning and creative expression, a new exhibition has opened in Norway that illustrates the fable of "The Three Little Pigs" with an installation centred around aromas corresponding to the story.
Lethe Ulrich Lang: Waters of Oblivion
“What we want most is only to be held…and told…that everything (everything is a funny thing, is baby milk and Papa’s eyes, is roaring logs on a cold morning, is hoot-owls and the boy who makes you cry after school, is Mama’s long hair, is being afraid, and twisted faces on the bedroom wall)…everything is going to be all right.” Truman Capote, Other Voices, Other Rooms.
Pitti Fragranze 2022: Review of Antonio Alessandria Fragrances
While Antonio Alessandria, the founder of the eponymous niche brand, is thinking about the name for his new tobacco with rose and salt fragrance, I will remind you of the rest of the fragrances in his collection.
The 7 Virtues Lotus Pear: Succulent Fruit Surrounded by Sugar Haze
Sustainability-focused brand The 7 Virtues' newest scent Lotus Pear is a natural-leaning fruity floral that surrounds its star note of pear in a bed of soft musk and pillowy rose. The opening is beautifully candid and uncanny, showcasing pear as you experience it in the mouth, at the end stages of its flavour journey, leaning towards its smooth aftertaste more than juice-bursting initial bite.
Pink Latex and Second skin: Perfume.Sucks X Sasha Frolova
So, after a long silence of two years, the two big annual perfume exhibitions took place again in Italy - Esxence-2022 and Pitti Fragranze 2022. This is how we found out the perfume industry thankfully is still alive and releasing new products. We encountered, for example, Andreas Wilhelm, the creator of the Perfume.Sucks brand, who presented his newest edition, which in fact is the first fragrance of his new collection.
Elizabeth Arden White Tea Eau de Parfum
In 2022, Elizabeth Arden launches White Tea Eau de Parfum as an aroma of simple joys and private pleasures. The fragrance encourages a sense of well-being in its wearer. It is a new flanker to the original White Tea that joined the tea fragrances collection of the house in 2017. A deeper concentration of the fragrance, White Tea Eau de Parfum is composed by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux.
Wormwood Autumn: L'Eau d'Armoise Serge Lutens
Do you love wormwood? Personally, I adore this herb and its bittersweet aroma. Wormwood for me is the smell of August and Indian summers, hot sunny days and cold evenings. After Elena's announcement of the Les Eaux de Politesse Serge Lutens collection, I was looking for one fragrance from it, namely L'Eau d'Armoise, expecting a transparent, green, elegantly bitter fragrance close to the natural smell of the herb.
MFK 724: Citrus Soap And Nothing Else
Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s latest release, 724, is unusually one-dimensional, even in the context of the perfumer’s signature synthetic-forward style, so basic and unsculpted it may strike you, as it did me, like a laundry detergent scent bottled with zero changes. It gives you classic Castille soap and virtually nothing else. As he often does, Kurkdjian has borrowed motifs from his archives to composite something familiar with minor variation.
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