You would probably think that many things in fashion qualify as "perfect," but actually, after 30 years of seeing extraordinary clothes, I can tell you that only one thing does - and that's having a dress made for your body in Paris. It has happened to me three times.
The symbolism couldn't have been clearer. In a gutted 18th-century building in Place Vendôme, bathed in light and sound from the latest equipment and given a sleek, high-tech ceiling, Nicolas Ghesquière presented a collection for Louis Vuitton that drew on his own history of design as it stepped smartly toward the near future.
Four British women have left the deepest mark on the Paris shows. They are Stella McCartney, Sarah Burton, Phoebe Philo, and Zandra Rhodes. With each, the difference is a singular point of view and great timing. Philo captured the ambivalence felt by many women toward fashion with mismatched shoes and hectically thrown-together looks.
I was almost thrilled when the Céline publicist said Phoebe Philo wasn't seeing anyone backstage after the show - thrilled for Philo. It meant she wouldn't have to explain her clothes, which she is very clumsy at doing.
When we take a picture with our smart phones, it can seem that we are not so much recording the object as we are erasing it. We click, store, forget. Fashion is particularly vulnerable to erasure, partly due to the sheer number of brands competing for our clicks and mental storage space, but perhaps even more so because very few of the designs now are worth remembering.
Since yesterday, when Maria Grazia Chiuri showed her first collection for Dior at the Rodin Museum, my thoughts have jumped about like the bumblebees embroidered on her shirts. Indeed, this morning, after a bath and a cup of coffee, I find that only one thought is truly stable: I hate fencers' jackets, almost as much as I hate a fencing theme.
There are many ways to define a good runway show: one is as an unfolding drama set at the right pace. The other day John Galliano opened the Maison Margiela show with a plain belted coat in spearmint, followed by an equally austere black shift with the tiny detail of a Cocteau-esque hand holding a flower traced in white at a shoulder.
One measure of our disconnected times is that none of the barmen at my local, the Café Castiglione, have yet inquired about the new designer at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri. There is still time - Chiuri makes her debut on Friday - but in the past such a query would have been routine, even a matter of pride.
In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, not far from where many of the design legends of the 20th century once roosted, Anthony Vaccarello presented his first looks for Saint Laurent. The setting was the colonnade of a building that will eventually be the company's headquarters - hoisted on a crane, blazing against the night sky, was the famous YSL logo.
Since the advent of fashion shows in the early 20th century, we've been used to waiting six months for clothes to reach stores. But at New York Fashion Week that tradition has been broken, as a handful of adventurous designers, led by Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger, begin to offer clothes and accessories to consumers immediately after their runway shows.
Muck Rack makes it simple to find people, tweets, or articles that mention any name, keyword, company, hashtag etc. We've compiled this guide to help you make the most of your search.
Selecting a term
Start searching tweets, articles from media outlets, articles mentioned in tweets, journalists'
names, titles and bios with some suggested searches:
Companies or Topics (e.g. iPhone, Microsoft)
Phrases (e.g. "cloud computing") — use quotes to keep the terms together
Twitter handles (e.g. @username) — returns those who have mentioned or replied to
Names (e.g. "David Pogue")
Hashtags (e.g. #sxsw, #london2012)
Bio details (e.g. vegan, Olympics, father)
Muck Rack's Advanced Search allows for many boolean operators.
Find results that mention multiple specified terms, use AND or
+. For example, ensure each result contains both Elon Musk and Mark Zuckerberg by
searching Obama AND Romney or Obama + Romney.
Use the operators OR or , to broaden your search when you'd like either of
multiple terms to appear in results. (This is the default behavior of our search when no operators
are used.) For example, search for democrat OR republican to find results that refer to
Democrats and/or Republicans.
Use NOT or - to subtract results from your search. For
example, searching Disney will yield results about the Walt Disney Company as well as Walt Disney
World Resort. To exclude mentions of Disney World, search for Disney -World or Disney
When using one of these operators with a phrase, enclose it in quotation marks. For example, you can
find results about smartphones excluding Apple's iPhone 4S by searching smartphone -"iPhone
Use parentheses to separate multiple
boolean phrases. For example, to find journalists talking about having fun in Disney World or
Disneyland, search for ("disney world" OR disneyland) AND fun.
An asterisk can be used to search for any variation of a root word truncated by the asterisk. For example, searching for admin* will return results for administrator, administration, administer, administered, etc.
A near operator is an AND operator where you can control the distance between the words. You can vary the distance the near operation uses by adding a forward slash and number (between 0-99) such as strawberries NEAR/10 "whipped cream", which means the strawberries must exist within 10 words of "whipped cream".