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BEFORE 2002 F&W BEST NEW CHEF GRANT ACHATZ helped define America’s modernist cuisine movement at Alinea, his Michelin two-star restaurant in Chicago, he grew up in a family of much more pragmatic cooks. Instead of edible helium balloons, they had a knack for baking pies. His parents ran a diner in Richmond, Michigan, and his mom was in charge of the pies—a task that she eventually assigned to young Achatz. It was there that he fell in love with making them.
ONE FATEFUL EVENING, Edgar Rico and I truly met. We’d just spent a serendipitous week together at an events and catering company—his first week and my last—but this was different. After our final day together, our whole crew ended up at Shangri-La, a classic Austin Eastside bar, and over Fire Eagle IPAs, he and I both started feeling some type of way.
I MUST CONFESS, I LOVE A GOOD MEAT MARKET. Whenever I travel, I get off the big freeways and hit the backroads because small towns in rural areas always show me the agriculture of where I am. Small-town meat markets in particular are looking glasses into the past. The styles of fresh or cured sausages immediately tell the story of the cultures in that area. Fresh chorizo? It’s a Latin community. An array of styles of bratwurst? There was a German settlement here.
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