The sky was spectacularly blue on the freezing – I’m talking -26C – early January afternoon when I arrived at Chesa Marchetta, a new 13-room hotel and restaurant in the High Engadin village of Sils Maria, not far from the Italian border. It had been a three-hour drive of hairpin bends into the mountains from Zurich and then suddenly, here I was in the prettiest village at the foot of the Piz Corvatsch.