Home People & Opinion By Guy Woodward Published: 12 May, 2026 The new ad for Penfolds Grange is, essentially, everything that Australian wine shouldn’t be right now. Bland, weighty, pretentious, lavishly produced but devoid of place or identity. Or, as Penfolds describes it: “The shimmer of discovery lingers at the edge of perception. Vivid, layered with contrast and elusive qualities: Grange’s emotional terrain.