James Gaffigan likes his wines like he likes his classical music: with the best of Europe meeting the best of America. He raves about Domaine Drouhin and Beaux Frères, Willamette Valley wineries that respect the traditions and expertise of Burgundy. “That’s what we should be doing in America,” he says of both winemaking and opera, “taking what they’ve done and making it better.” As Houston Grand Opera’s incoming music director, Gaffigan is something of a rarity: an American in, well, America.