OUR GUIDE, Dux Mareja, threw out his arm like a shield. “Step around,” he warned, ushering my family down the main pathway of andBeyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge (from $1,850 per person, all-inclusive), a 12-suite property on the edge of Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve. Thirty seconds earlier, we had been gorging on pastries at base camp, a structure resembling a pangolin, with wood shingles for scales.