In late August 2021, the Delta variant of COVID was kicking the pandemic into a terrifying new phase of unknowns. Here in Chicago, the city reinstated an indoor mask mandate for stores, restaurants, gyms and other places where humans gathered in public. Into this dismal scene, local food writer Mike Sula launched a tiny, hopeful project. The idea was simple: Invite an up-and-coming chef to offer a special menu at a local bar for one night only, pop-up style.