John Valls
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Articles by John Valls
Oregon’s Deadliest Catch
A silvery fog shrouds the Newport docks and shimmers across tips of towering spruce trees, while the wind howls and rain falls sideways. It’s just before 8:00am on a Saturday morning and from afar the docks appear sleepy. Zoom in and a Bruce Springsteen ballad blasts from the F/V Orca, where fishers clad in slick orange waders prep for the most important season of the year.
Oregon Wine + Food The Cookbook
Over the past fifty years, Oregon has evolved into a top wine destination, distinguished by its ideal growing climate, offbeat sensibility, and innovative winemakers. Oregon Wine + Food celebrates this dynamic community with stories from 40 of the state’s most influential wine professionals alongside 80 recipes showcasing the region’s bounty.
Oregon Wine + Food The Cookbook
Over the past fifty years, Oregon has evolved into a top wine destination, distinguished by its ideal growing climate, offbeat sensibility, and innovative winemakers. Oregon Wine + Food celebrates this dynamic community with stories from 40 of the state’s most influential wine professionals alongside 80 recipes showcasing the region’s bounty.
Q Restaurant & Bar
Executive Chef Annie Cuggino, known for peppering her dishes with the finest local produce farmers have to offer, has excelled at navigating the ever-changing waters of the restaurant business for over two decades. Not in just one successful Portland restaurant, but two. The New York native transformed the Veritable Quandry (VQ) from casual bar to dining haven, turning out delectable dishes from a kitchen she describes as so tiny you felt trapped.
Going Native
Sunny Jin, the executive chef, stands in the middle of his one acre sun-drenched “chef’s garden” just outside JORY restaurant. Jin’s classic white chef jacket is a crisp contrast to the profusion of exuberant green rows he tiptoes between. Vibrant vegetable tops splash across the soil in meticulously straight lines. Herbs, fruits and flowers mingle around handwritten signs for wild garden kale, Easter egg radishes, butter crunch lettuce and petite rapini spears.
Bistro Agnes
Last year was a good one for husband and wife chefs and restaurateurs Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton, owners and founders of the award-winning Ox restaurant in North Portland’s Boise-Eliot neighborhood. They published their first cookbook—Around the Fire, a game-changing grilling guide to transform your backyard into a South American asador—and then they picked up the Best Chef Northwest prize at the 2017 James Beard Awards. Many would rest on their laurels, but not Greg and Gabrielle.
Estes+Dame Italian Pacific Northwest
Written by Donna Pizzi | Photography by John Valls Chef Patrick McKee, whose maternal grandfather, née D’Este, hailed from Rome with genealogical connections to Villa D’Este in Tivoli, loved hanging out in his mother and grandmother’s Italian kitchen at an early age. Preparing those all-important Sunday dinners included picking herbs, tomatoes and squash from his grandmother’s garden. “I didn’t realize until later that nobody ate like we did.
Oaxacan Smoking Jacket
This sultry cocktail is a smooth mix of mezcal, sherry, amaro, simple syrup and bitters. 1½ oz. espadín mezcal (Barrio uses Los Vecinos del Campo) ½ oz. oloroso sherry ½ oz. Amaro CioCiaro ¼ oz. simple syrup (1:1) 8 drops mole bitters (Barrio uses Bittermens) Tools: barspoon, strainer Glass: rocks Garnish: orange peel Stir all of the ingredients with ice, strain into a glass holding a large ice cube, then garnish. Maggie DiGiovanni for Barrio, Seattle Did you enjoy this recipe?
Que Syrah Syrah Wine Cocktail
Wanting to create a summery cocktail that echoed the fruitiness of sangria, Sarah LM Mengoni tasted through all of the by-the-glass wines at Double Take in Los Angeles. “It was the flavors of black pepper and strawberry in the Syrah that I really honed in on,” says Mengoni, who made a fresh strawberry syrup and peppercorn-infused vodka to amplify the flavors. “The wine isn’t just the inspiration for this cocktail, it’s the backbone.” 3 oz. Syrah ¾ oz. black peppercorn–infused vodka 1½ oz.
Kalimotxo Mule - Imbibe Magazine
Spain’s classic combo of red wine and cola gets a refreshing boost with bright, spicy ginger syrup in this riff from Nashville’s Vandyke Bed and Beverage. “I’ve always had an obsession with the Kalimotxo [aka Calimocho],” says bartender Freddy Schwenk. “I thought one way to add intrigue to the cocktail would be to fuse the flavors with a Moscow Mule. Turns out swapping the vodka for a nice Tempranillo and adding a kick of ginger is actually delightful.” 2 oz.
Mental Note, A Blanc Vermouth Cocktail
Brightly flavored and low in alcohol, this refreshing blanc vermouth cocktail is perfectly tailored for warm weather drinking. 2½ oz. blanc vermouth ¾ oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. crème de menthe 2-3 dashes Angostura bitters Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: tumbler Garnish: lime wheel Shake the first 3 ingredients with ice, then strain into an ice-filled glass. Dash bitters atop the drink’s surface, then garnish. Lukas Smith for Cotton & Reed, Washington, D.C. Did you enjoy this recipe?
Tarragon Fix From ABV
A bittersweet tarragon syrup marries perfectly with earthy tequila in this cocktail from ABV in San Francisco. 2 oz. blanco tequila 1 oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. pineapple gum syrup (such as Small Hand Foods) ½ oz. tarragon syrup 1 dash absinthe Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: coupe Shake all of the ingredients with ice, then strain into a chilled glass. Tarragon Syrup: Blanch 1½ oz. of tarragon leaves (no stems) for 15 seconds in boiling water, then transfer the leaves to an ice bath.
French 75 Riff: Deci's Roommate
At OK Omens in Portland, Oregon, bartender Alex Blair combines sparkling rosé with Calvados in this extra-aromatic riff on the French 75. 1 oz. Calvados ¾ oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. rich simple syrup (2:1) 2 oz. demi-sec sparkling rosé Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: small Collins Garnish: lime wheel Shake the first 3 ingredients in an ice-filled shaker, then add the sparkling rosé to the shaker (but don’t shake) and strain into an ice-filled glass. Garnish.
Elements: Genever
One of the most overlooked bottles on the back bar is that unfamiliar round-shouldered vessel displaying a flowery name: genever. But many don’t realize their favorite gin wouldn’t exist without this long-ignored spirit. Genever’s origins date to the Middle Ages, when grain-based spirits flavored with juniper were administered as medicine to fight the plague.
The Shirley Temple
What comes to mind when you hear the name Shirley Temple? Most likely, images of the cherub-faced 1930s child star, or maybe the ruby-red fizzy drink that shares her name. At Los Angeles’ legendary Musso & Frank Grill, the “Shirley Temple’s always a staple,” says general manager Andrea Scuto. While the recipe remains by and large unchanged since it was created in the 1930s, Musso & Frank prefers lemon-lime soda over ginger ale and always garnishes with at least three maraschino cherries. 6-7 oz.
Why You Should Drink What You Like
Gentle readers, take note: Though many an online article will tell you that your bartender thinks you’re an idiot for ordering a particular drink, most good bartenders don’t much care what you order. There may have been a time during the cocktail renaissance when your order might have prompted a sneer.
White Russian Recipe
The addition of fresh coffee gives this White Russian recipe an added depth and richness that’s just right. It’s one of easiest cocktails to make and drink, made popular again in the late 199os when it made an appearance as “The Dude’s” favorite drink in The Big Lebowski. 2 oz. vodka 1 oz. Kahlua 1 oz. cream ½ oz. fresh-brewed coffee, cooled Tools: shaker Glass: Old Fashioned Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake to chill and pour into a glass.
Gimlet Recipe - Imbibe Magazine
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Old Pal Cocktail
First printed in Harry McElhone’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails, the classic Old Pal cocktail stands on its own merits among the similar equal-parts cocktails like the Negroni and Boulevardier. 1 oz. rye 1 oz. Campari 1 oz. dry vermouth Tools: mixing glass, barspoon Glass: coupe Garnish: lemon peel Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir to chill. Strain into a chilled coupe, then garnish. Did you enjoy this recipe?
Murder by Numbers, A Raicilla Cocktail
Flavors of pomegranate and coffee give this raicilla cocktail grip, not unlike a great Cabernet, explains Empellón corporate beverage director Noah Small. 1¼ oz. raicilla (Empellón uses La Venenosa) ¾ oz. pomegranate juice ¾ oz. fresh lemon and lime juices (a 50:50 mix) ½ oz. coffee liqueur (Empellón uses Mr. Black) ¼ oz. pomegranate liqueur (Empellón uses Pama) 1 drop Angostura bitters Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: coupe Shake all of the ingredients with ice, then strain into a chilled glass.
Pasión de Oaxaca Cocktail
This vibrantly fruity cocktail from Bricia Lopez at L.A.’s beloved Guelaguetza complements the tropical notes of the agave spirits, with a split base of espadín mezcal and blanco tequila. 1 oz. espadín mezcal 1 oz. blanco tequila 1 oz. grapefruit juice 1 oz. passion fruit concentrate (such as Perfect Purée) 1 oz. mango purée ½ oz. simple syrup (1:1) ½ oz.
Gusano's Delight From Mama Rabbit
A fresh, verdant purée of avocado and cilantro highlights the earthy qualities of mezcal, while a splash of Ancho Reyes adds a little kick to this cocktail from Mama Rabbit in Las Vegas. 2 oz. espadín mezcal ½ oz. Ancho Reyes Chile Liqueur 1 ½ oz. avocado-cilantro purée 1 oz. fresh lime juice ¾ oz.
Classic Alaska Cocktail
The Martinez, the Gibson, the Vesper—all close associates of the Martini, and they’ve also all experienced warmer welcomes during the classic cocktail revival than the pale gold Alaska. The Alaska cocktail first appeared in print in 1913, calling for Old Tom gin, yellow Chartreuse and a dash of orange bitters. Fast-forward to 1930, and the bitters had been dropped and Old Tom bounced in favor of dry gin, as the recipe was written in The Savoy Cocktail Book.
Driftwood Spritz
A savory spritz utilizing two types of Italian fizz, the Driftwood taps into quintessential winter flavors. “Prosecco brings a cheerful element to this drink and brings out the warm spice of the amaro and the orange spice of the Crodino,” says Nostrana bar director Colleen Kenny. 3 oz. prosecco 2 oz. Ramazzotti 1½ oz. Crodino soda ¼ oz.
Tujague's Grasshopper Recipe - Imbibe Magazine
It’s not easy being green—particularly for a sweet, creamy drink in the throes of a cocktail renaissance. Yet the Grasshopper persists, part retro appeal and part guilty pleasure. Like many classics, the Grasshopper recipe hails from New Orleans, purportedly originating at Tujague’s at the hands of Philip Guichet, who took ownership of the restaurant in the early 20th century. Guichet mixed up the Grasshopper for a cocktail competition in New York City in 1918, for which he took second place.
The Peppermint Dandy Cocktail
“Winter always makes me want a cream-based cocktail or the warm vibes of a minty hot chocolate, so I figured why not combine them in a Grasshopper variation?” asks Fabien Piccoli, beverage director at Antica Pesa in Brooklyn. 1 oz. Borghetti coffee liqueur ¾ oz. cream liqueur ¼ oz. white créme de cacao 1 barspoon Branca Menta Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: cordial Garnish: peppermint candy rim Rim half the glass with simple syrup and coat with crushed peppermint candies.
Nocino Cocktail: Brass Elephant
“Like many classic Italian liqueurs, there’s a beautiful balance of bitterness and sweetness in nocino,” says Braden Alsnauer, bar manager at Frasca Food and Wine. In this nocino cocktail, the liqueur ties together the spice and sweetness of the drink’s other components. 1 oz. vanilla-infused rye whiskey 1 oz. apple brandy (Frasca uses Laird’s) ¾ oz. nocino ¼ oz.
Bar Pisellino Cocktail: VOV
An Italian custard takes the spotlight in this winter warmer from New York City’s Bar Pisellino. For the zabaione, the robust flavors of Cognac and nocino step in for the custard’s typical sweet wine. 2 oz. zabaione 1 oz. Cognac 1 shot freshly brewed espresso Tools: barspoon Glass: cordial (6 oz.) Garnish: dark chocolate Pour a fresh shot of espresso into a cordial glass. Add the Cognac, then spoon warm zabaione over the surface. Garnish with grated dark chocolate.
Hot Buttered Punch
This winter warmer from New Orleans taps the distinctive, spicy-sweet flavor of Punch Fantasia, a rum-based liqueur from Italy. It’s available at specialty liquor stores and online retailers such as astorwines.com. 1 oz. rye whiskey 1 oz. Varnelli Punch Fantasia 1 Tbsp. Cinnamon Sugar Compound Butter 6 oz. hot water Glass: Irish Coffee mug Preheat a mug by rinsing it with hot water, then add the first two ingredients. Fill the mug with hot water, then top the drink with the compound butter.
Gin Cocktail: Papercut
Fresh grapefruit juice adds tartness and balance to this vividly aromatic cocktail. ¾ oz. gin ¾ oz. ginger syrup ¾ oz. fresh grapefruit juice ¾ oz. Cappelletti Aperitivo Americano Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: coupe Garnish: grapefruit twist Shake all the ingredients with ice until chilled, then strain into a chilled glass, and garnish. Cameron Phelps, The Daily Refresher, Rochester, New York Did you enjoy this recipe? Sign up for our newsletter and get weekly recipes and articles in your inbox.
White Port Cocktail: Nester's Refresher
Summers in the South call for extra-strength refreshment, so Mike McDermott, bar manager at Tin Tin in Atlanta, created a drink that was both crushable and “bracingly tart.” To keep it sessionable, he reached for a fortified wine. “White port has pronounced flavors of honey and nuts, which makes it great for mixing, enabling it to hold up particularly well to other loud flavors like citrus, Suze and tonic,” says McDermott.
Limantour Michelada TJ
At Limantour in Mexico City, the Michelada TJ was inspired by flavors of Tijuana, with fresh cucumber balancing the savory notes, and a hit of mezcal for boldness. ½ oz. chopped cucumber 1½ oz. tomato juice 1½ oz. Clamato ½ oz. mezcal ¾ oz. fresh lime juice 1 bottle of Mexican lager (Limantour uses Pacifico) Tools: muddler Glass: large beer or cider glass Garnish: sal de gusano Rim the glass with the sal de gusano, then add the cucumber and lightly muddle.
The Daybreaker Wine Cocktail
Straddling the line between two summer classics, this cocktail from P6—the new rooftop bar in the LINE Austin hotel—combines the juiciness of sangria with the sparkle of a spritz. “The Daybreaker sits between the two,” says the hotel’s beverage director, Brian Floyd. “I love lengthening a cocktail with a wine, and we chose a classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc because of its bright and lovely citric notes—specifically grapefruit.” 1 oz. Aperol ½ oz. gin 2 oz. fresh grapefruit juice 2½ oz.
Orange Wine Cocktail: Going for Gold
A “total beach cocktail” is how Daniel Miller, beverage manager for the Philly-based Vedge Restaurant Group, sums up the vibrantly tangy Going for Gold. With an eclectic selection of wines under his purview, Miller gets experimental with cocktail applications. “Orange wine works great as a cocktail ingredient,” he says. “It has a ton of different flavor profiles like orange peel, golden raisin, almond and dried fruit.
Orange Wine Cocktail: Going for Gold
A “total beach cocktail” is how Daniel Miller, beverage manager for the Philly-based Vedge Restaurant Group, sums up the vibrantly tangy Going for Gold. With an eclectic selection of wines under his purview, Miller gets experimental with cocktail applications. “Orange wine works great as a cocktail ingredient,” he says. “It has a ton of different flavor profiles like orange peel, golden raisin, almond and dried fruit.
Long Island Iced Tea
Like an evil twin—identical in appearance, oppositely intentioned—Long Island Iced Tea is a deceptive stand-in for its counterpart: basic iced tea. Rather than a long sip of refreshingly cool black tea, the LIIT is a log flume of five clear liquors disguised by a golden splash of cola, credited to Suffolk County bartender Bob “Rosebud” Butt, who conceived it during a cocktail competition in 1972. More recently, bartenders have tweaked the drink’s notoriously excessive formula.
This Isn't Goodbye: A Green Tea Punch
Green tea gets a fizzy boost from sparkling wine in this simple summer punch. “The bubbles and floral, citrus notes of the wine help highlight the more complex earthiness of the green tea, while the dryness balances the sweetness of the honey,” says Nicholas Dowling, co-owner and bartender at Daps Breakfast & Imbibe in Charleston. “Wine allows you to incorporate a ton of flavor and complexity into a cocktail without overwhelming the palate with a lot of alcohol.” 1 750 ml.
The Ballerina Wine Cocktail
Racine’s is known for their expansive selection of organic and biodynamic wines, and this low-proof wine cocktail highlights just how versatile a good rosé can be, with a grapefruit-rosemary oleo emphasizing the wine’s fruity, herbal notes. 1 oz. sweet vermouth (such as Cocchi Torino) 2 barspoons grapefruit-rosemary oleo 4 oz. dry rosé (Racine’s uses Terres Promises “L’Apostrophe”) 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters ½ oz.
Paloma Riff: L’Auberge Español
A crisp, fruity rosé takes the lead in this Paloma riff, making for an easy-drinking summer cocktail. “While the tequila could be considered the base of the drink, the wine is what creates the flavors reminiscent of a classic Paloma,” says Susie Scott, beverage director and sommelier at The Carillon in Austin. “It’s less sweet with more complex fruit flavors.” 3 oz. rosé ¾ oz. blanco tequila ¾ oz. Lillet Blanc ½ oz. fresh lemon juice ½ oz.
Anatomy of a Drink: Negroni
The Negroni is perhaps one of the most iconic embodiments of the color red. This year the classic Italian cocktail celebrates its 100th birthday, purportedly born at the behest of Count Camillo Negroni during a stop at Caffè Casoni in Florence, when he asked for a bolder retelling of the Americano, with gin replacing soda water.
Pearl Collins - Imbibe Magazine
Jasmine, lemon and mint brighten this refreshing Collins. 1 oz. gin (Dear Irving uses Fords) 1 oz. Cocchi Americano ¾ oz. jasmine syrup ½ oz. fresh lemon juice 4-5 fresh mint leaves Chilled soda water Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: Collins Garnish: lemon wheel, mint sprig Shake the first 5 ingredients with ice to chill, then strain into an ice- filled glass, top with soda water, and garnish. Jasmine Syrup: Add 1 Tbsp. of loose-leaf jasmine tea to 8 oz. of boiling water and let steep for 5 minutes.
No. 2 Fleet Street, A Gin Cocktail
Designed to highlight the floral, herbaceous character of a contemporary gin, this cocktail accents these flavors with pineapple, coffee and Chartreuse. 1½ oz. gin (Barber Shop uses Aviation) 1 oz. pineapple juice ½ oz. fresh lemon juice ½ oz. yellow Chartreuse 2 tsp. simple syrup (1:1) 10 coffee beans Tools: shaker, strainer, fine strainer Glass: coupe Garnish: dried pineapple wheel, 3 coffee beans Shake all the ingredients with ice to chill, then double strain into a chilled glass and garnish.
P-38 Lightning from Here and Now
Apricot liqueur lends fruity sweetness to this gin cocktail from Here and Now in Los Angeles. 1½ oz. gin (Here and Now uses Ford’s) ¼ oz. apricot liqueur ¼ oz. velvet falernum ¾ oz. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. caster sugar Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: rocks Garnish: absinthe mist and star anise Combine all of the ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake. Strain into rocks glass. Spritz absinthe over the drink and garnish with a star anise.
Lucien Gaudin Cocktail
Named for the French Olympic fencer popular in the early 20th century, the Lucien Gaudin is a classic gin cocktail in the neighborhood of the Negroni but with amplified flavors of bitter orange from the addition of dry vermouth and orange liqueur. 1 oz. London dry gin (Tongue-Cut Sparrow uses Tanqueray) ½ oz. Campari ½ oz. Cointreau ½ oz. dry vermouth Tools: Mixing glass, barspoon, strainer Glass: Nick and Nora Garnish: orange twist Build all ingredients in a mixing glass and stir to chill.
My Fair Lady, A Genever Cocktail
This Brooklyn variation was inspired by two of Holland’s most treasured exports, Audrey Hepburn (who spent much of her childhood in Holland) and genever. 1½ oz. genever (Fog Room uses Bols) 1 oz. dry vermouth ½ oz. Amaro CioCiaro 1 tsp. maraschino liqueur 3 dashes orange bitters Tools: barspoon, strainer Glass: coupe Garnish: orange twist Stir all the ingredients with ice until chilled, then strain into a chilled glass; garnish. Jesse L. Cyr, The Fog Room, Seattle Did you enjoy this recipe?
Queen Christina From Eastern Standard
Swedish punsch lends a delicate spice to this simple spin on a whiskey sour from Boston hotel bar Eastern Standard. 1½ oz. bourbon ¾ oz. Swedish punsch ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice ¼ oz. simple syrup (1:1) Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: cocktail Shake all the ingredients with ice, then strain into a chilled glass. Tom Mahne, Eastern Standard, Boston Did you enjoy this recipe? Sign up for our newsletter and get our favorite drink recipes of the moment in your inbox every month.
The 20th Century Cocktail
Like its fellow classics the Sidecar and the Aviation, the 20th Century cocktail is also named for a mode of transportation. The 20th Century Limited express passenger train ran between New York City and Chicago for 65 years beginning in 1902 and included, among other opulent amenities, a dining car that would transform after the final meal into nightclub Café Century. First published in the 1937 Café Royal Cocktail Book by William J.
Sky Rocket from Teardrop Lounge
Swedish punsch lends complexity to this recurring favorite on the menu at Teardrop Lounge. 1 oz. bourbon 1 oz. Swedish punsch 1 oz. dry vermouth ¼ oz. fresh lemon juice 1 dash aromatic bitters (Teardrop uses Fee Brothers’ Old-Fashioned) Tools: barspoon, strainer Glass: Nick & Nora or other cocktail glass Garnish: lemon twist Stir all ingredients with ice, then strain into a chilled glass and garnish.
Classic Hot Toddy
Simple, classic and warming to the core, the classic hot toddy holds a kind of reverence as both historic warmer and folk remedy, rivaling chicken soup in its ability to soothe the sick. Versions have circulated for centuries, from 19th-century bartender Jerry Thomas’ Irish Whiskey Punch with hot water and lemon oleo saccharum, to the flaming spectacle of the Blue Blazer.
Andy Ricker On Why He Eats Vietnamese Noodle Soup for Breakfast
When I eat breakfast, it's almost always a bowl of noodles. To me, they're a far lighter and healthier breakfast than, say, a stack of pancakes smothered in butter and syrup, topped off with a couple of sausage links. It's a habit I adopted during my wanderings in Southeast Asia: Though there are some foods people only eat in the morning (fresh hot soy milk or coffee with Chinese "donuts" or rice porridge, for example), there isn't really an analogue to bacon and eggs.
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