"What is carne asada?" I asked my friend Enrique Velez, M. Shanken's vice president for internet technology and an avid cook and diner. He screwed up his face, looked at me like I'd asked how many heads a sheep has, and said, "grilled meat." I asked if it has to be marinated with citrus, and he shrugged and said, "No. You can, but no." Here is a case where a dish's simplicity gives the home cook opportunity for expression. Since the idea for this installment of Which Wines Pair Well With ... ?