At their NYC restaurants and joint pop-up, Shy*Boyz Club, chefs (and friends) Eric Sze of 886 and Lucas Sin of Junzi Kitchen cook as a way to explore Chinese food’s past, present, and future and to celebrate the cuisine’s diversity. “China has thousands of years of history, 50-something ethnic minorities, and one of the largest diasporas in the world,” Sin says. “‘Chinese food’ could mean anything.” Case in point: beef noodle soup, which varies in most every detail depending on who makes it.