Before the war, Qeshm Island in the Strait of Hormuz was an Iranian holiday destination that offered boutique hotels, quaint cafés, and the embrace of a slower, disconnected island lifestyle. “Suddenly, we are living on the front line,” says one Qeshm guesthouse owner in a text message exchange, who could not be named for his security, as he prepared to leave the island Thursday after nine years. It had been another night of blasts and the buzz of drones and fighter jets. “It’s been a nightmare.