By now, plant-based meat and milk alternatives are so common as to be unremarkable, but the same can’t be said for the third pillar of vegan faux-food engineering: cheese. Much of that, as Sam Colbert explains, has to do with how casein works; it simply melts and stretches in a way that resists emulation. That doesn’t stop food scientists from trying, though, and Colbert tours the labs (and cautionary tales) of some of those companies trying to create the first viable mozza-really?.