“Belize is nicknamed the Swiss cheese of Central America because it is believed we have more miles of caves than paved roads,” said our guide, Alex, in his soft voice as we paddled between glittering stalactites. My baby was flopped across my lap in his lifejacket, his snores echoing down the narrow cavern. This was only the first on our list of caves to visit that week, and already, we were blown away by the small country’s beauty and history buried beneath the surface.