“Latour has always had a solid, noble dignity. When a smile emerges, it is no chummy twinkle; more the revealing of a considered beneficence.” Photography by Iannis Giakoumopoulos. Perhaps Lafite can claim more glamour, Margaux more romance, and Haut-Brion more history, but Latour has always had a sort of solid, noble dignity. You could describe it as Saintsbury described Hermitage: “manly.” Its wines start life rough-hewn, uncompromising, unsmiling.