Inga Aksamit

Giddy at the discovery of an unexpected fortress, I wasn’t sure what thrilled me more: the Santa Bárbara Castle in Alicante, Spain, or the shocking ease of visiting it. No parking stress, no timed entry, no advance planning—after the over-subscribed venues in Mallorca and Barcelona, the simple act of walking uphill and wandering at will felt almost illicit. The pleasure of exploring a place without barriers, schedules, or crowds amplified every view of the azure sea against the cobalt sky.

Palma waterfront in Mallorca (Inga Aksamit) As our plane banked toward the runway in Palma de Mallorca, the island's contrasts came into focus. I took in the deep blue sea, compact city built of stone, and rugged mountains rising sharply in the distance.

The first taste of tagine burst into fireworks in my mouth. Not the big explosive kind that go boom, but the showery type that shatters into a million pinpoints of light, vivid flavors sorting themselves into layers of complexity. The tartness of the preserved lemon, the sweetness of the quince, and the earthy warmth of the turmeric dominated, but ginger and garlic pushed forward, followed by cinnamon notes.