While the weather may be (in)famously temperate, you can almost always tell what season it is in Southern California by the produce at the markets. Come the shorter, if not much colder, days of winter, stacks of local citrus are everywhere. And yet, every year while I was growing up, my grandfather was sure to send a generous gift box of softball-size ruby red grapefruits nestled alongside navel oranges, seedless mandarins, and bags of Key limes straight from Florida to my family in Santa Monica.