Robert Camuto
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#iItaly based writer. Author of South of Somewhere: #Wine, #Food and the Soul of Italy, and twice-monthly column @winespectator.com
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Articles by Robert Camuto
Wine Needs A New Social Contract
You can’t talk with anyone in the wine world nowadays without discussing THE CRISIS: consumption is down, Millennials and Gen Z are turning to cocktails or mocktails, and U.S. tariffs and threats make for (as my grandparents would say holding their abdomen) agita. Wine crises come and go, sure. But this time feels different because everything else in our world is in crisis. And that all mashes up into the worlds of wine and hospitality.
Dancer Tiler Peck Loves Sauvignon Blanc. Just Don’t Offer Her a Glass While She’s Training
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Who Is the Millennial Face of Montalcino Wine?
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An Italian Abbey Places Its Faith in an Unexpected Wine Grape
What wine lover on the face of the Earth doesn’t love Cabernet Sauvignon wine? Pure or blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc (or some other French grape) according to the Burgundy style, this wine has been around for centuries. In our hectic modern world, though, wine consumption trends can appear …
Italian Fashion Mogul Sandro Veronesi Bets Big on Wine
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What's the Next Italian Red Wine of Summer? It Just Might Be Bardolino
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Boldly Going Where No Winery Has Gone Before—Planeta Branches Out
Thirty years in, modern Sicily’s most emblematic family winery, Planeta, is still pushing boundaries. In the 1990s, when Sicilian grape varieties were unknown and quality wines from the island were scarce, Planeta made waves with its Chardonnay from the hills of western Sicily.
Which Tuscan Wine Powerhouse Is Investing in a Sicilian Winery on Mount Etna?
Tuscan wine dynasty Marchesi de' Frescobaldi has bought a minority stake in the pioneering Mount Etna estate Tenute delle Terre Nere in Sicily.
Worried About Tariffs? Italy's Best Pour Their Wines and Their Optimism at OperaWine 2025
The 14th edition of OperaWine kicked off Vinitaly, Italy's signature wine fair in Verona, on April 5 against a backdrop of uncertainty and fear of a trans-Atlantic trade war sparked by President Donald J. Trump's tariffs on European products.
Why Is This Historic Mount Etna Winery So Hidden Away?
The Best Hidden Gems Close To Machu Picchu For A Less Crowded But Just As Scenic Adventure The thing about world-famous landmarks is that they exist in a kind of collective-consciousness bubble. We are all so familiar with what they look …
A Burgundy-Style Bacchanalia Is Transformed in Brunello-Land
1 day ago Page 10: Table of Contents Leo Woodall's Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello clothing from Saint Laurent, 3 East 57th Street, NYC, or call 212-980-2970, or go to ysl.com; for Eliburch Jewelry pendant and chain, go to eliburchjewelry.com; for David Yurman necklaces, bracelet, and rings, go to …
Why wine must change
At the outset of a new year and the start of a new generation, consider this big existential question: Does wine still make sense? Of course it does. But wine—like everything from cars to communications media—will undergo big disruptions.
How Anselme Selosse's Curiosity Shook Up Champagne
Anselme Selosse’s Champagne career has been influenced by a lot of daring experimentation, as well as by chance. And Spain. Selosse’s grandfather was a Paris roofer who was wounded as an infantryman in World War I, married his army nurse, and moved to her hometown of Avize in Champagne’s Côte des Blancs. Selosse’s father, Jacques, had hoped to pursue a career as baker, but turned out to have an allergy to wheat flour.
What Makes Selosse Champagnes So Coveted—and Controversial?
On an early summer evening in Anselme Selosse’s Champagne cellar, he is holding court with a group of wine-passionate visitors while downplaying his own importance. “It’s not about a brand,” says Selosse in French. With 50 years of experience behind him, he is coolly modest in jeans and a polo shirt.
Will the Future of Italian Bubbly Take Place Somewhere Unexpected?
Will the Future of Italian Bubbly Take Place Somewhere Unexpected? In a rural corner of northern Italy’s Lombardy region, you don’t have to go far from the highway to see the future of Italian sparkling wine. Here, in …
Will the Future of Italian Bubbly Take Place Somewhere Unexpected?
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A Controversial Italian Photographer, His Rebel Son and Wine
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Think You Know All the Wine Regions of Tuscany? Think Again
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Talking Napa, Burgundy and the Mondavis with Pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet
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From Wine to Gelato and Back Again: The Story of Mura Mura Winery
Before becoming one of the world’s most celebrated ice cream makers, Guido Martinetti dreamed of making wine. Born in 1974 in Turin, the capital of Italy’s Piedmont region, Martinetti grew up with a passion for the countryside and for fine winemaking that he shared with his father, a public-relations specialist. His hero was Piedmont’s most famous wine revolutionary. “I grew up with the myth of Angelo Gaja,” says Martinetti with a laugh.
How Did a Top Tech Lawyer Go from Google to Wine Grapes?
During his years as one of America’s top tech lawyers, David Drummond never thought about making wine. Then, in 2018, he bought a 500-acre, high-elevation ranch in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley that came with a 70-acre vineyard. “My idea was to grow some grapes and kind of live that lifestyle in retirement once I got there,” he says.
From Anarchy to Animal Feed to Aglianico
About 30 miles south of Southern Italy’s achingly beautiful Amalfi Coast lies its wild, rugged, lesser-known local cousin, the Cilento Coast. Here, in an immense national park that encompasses mountains, dense forests, olive and fig groves and the ancient Greek ruins of Paestum, Bruno De Conciliis continues to pioneer wines nearly 30 years into his career.
What Is the Future of Italian Wine? A Top Official Weighs In
Italy’s Minister of Agriculture is a job with a turnover rate as high as that of Italian governments themselves. But since assuming office as Italy’s current Minister of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forests in October 2022, Francesco Lollobrigida, 52, has acted with gusto. Though his background is in law and rightist politics, Lollobrigida seems to thrive on shaping agricultural policy.
Why is European Wine Still Flowing to Russia in Wartime?
Anatoly Korneev is a wine dealer at the epicenter of a precarious global wine trade. At 55, he is a founding partner of the 30-year-old Simple Group, a leading Russian wine importer and retailer. He spends much of his time in Italy, which has been Russia’s main source of imported wines for decades.
Join Me on the Dark Side of Rosé
Why do I generally avoid rosé? Because I love wine. That statement may ring true for many of you (rosé sales in the U.S. have slumped), but is blasphemy to others. I don’t dislike an entire category of wine. I just don’t like what it’s become in the 21st century. Some years ago, when I was living in Southern France, I got bored with the sameness of rosé made in the light, breezy, Provençal style that boomed in popularity, attracting drinkers with its beautiful, ultra-pale pink color.
Why Is Cult California Winery Arbe Garbe Devoted to Malvasia?
Enrico Bertoz is living an Italian’s California dream. In 1998, he and his soon-to-be wife, Letizia, quit their philosophy studies in northeastern Italy’s Friuli region to explore life in Los Angeles. Bertoz was inspired by what he calls “the American spirit,” which he found in reading the work of Jack Kerouac and listening to music that spanned the blues (as a teenager, he and his dad took a road trip through the Deep South) to Bob Dylan to grunge.
Can new hybrids make great wines?
Nicola Biasi works in an unusual place for one of Italy’s most talented young enologists: the remote, apple-growing hills of Northern Italy’s Dolomite Mountains. Here, at 3,000 feet, surrounded by the orchards, peaks and forests of Trentino’s Val di Non, Biasi is a Pied Piper on the cutting edge of disease-resistant hybrid grapevines. Vine hybrids that cross established European varieties with vines used for American rootstock have been around for decades in Northern European countries.
Can New Hybrid Grapevines Make Great Wines?
Nicola Biasi works in an unusual place for one of Italy’s most talented young enologists: the remote, apple-growing hills of Northern Italy’s Dolomite Mountains. Here, at 3,000 feet, surrounded by the orchards, peaks and forests of Trentino’s Val di Non, Biasi is a Pied Piper on the cutting edge of disease-resistant hybrid grapevines. Vine hybrids that cross established European varieties with vines used for American rootstock have been around for decades in Northern European countries.
The Volcano's Third Wave: What's New in Etna Wine?
About 20 years into the wine renaissance on Sicily’s Mount Etna, could there be anything new? Yes, as it turns out. On a trip there in the fall, I sipped wines from the latest (I count it as the third) wave. So what is Etna’s new, new, new wave? The Etna wine boom began a bit after the turn of the 21st century when an alignment of stars brought a small group of passionate pioneers to the mountain, which they explored in search of great, old volcanic terroirs.
The Volcano's Third Wave: What's New in Etna Wine?
Drinking 3 hours ago The Total Amount Of Beers You'd Have To Drink To Equal A Shot Tasting Table - Karen Hart • 3h All alcohol is not created equally, and if you are going out to a happy hour with your coworkers or to a bar with friends, it is important to have a … Drinking 2 hours ago Former worker pours out $600,000 worth of wine, WA cops say.
How Will Transparency on Wine Labels Help Consumers?
Which do you want to hear first: the good news or the bad? I figured. Amid the December holiday season, the Italian state-owned television station Rai 3 dropped something of a wine bomblet. The investigative show Report explored secrets of the Italian wine world. The most significant among the accusations of fraud involved trafficking grapes grown in sun-splashed Puglia to the northern region of Veneto to make wine bearing its appellations—which is illegal under Italy's D.O.C. regulations.
The Overshadowed Sicilian Reds You Should Get to Know
It’s not easy being Faro. One of Italy’s smallest wine appellations, Faro nestles along northeastern Sicily’s Messina coast, producing good-to-gorgeous red wines dominated by Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio—the same grapes that reign on volcanic Mount Etna 40 miles south. But Etna and its booming wine scene seem to get almost all the attention, leaving Sicilian neighbors in its shadow. Like Faro.
How to Cultivate Young Wine Drinkers
The wine industry has done a lot of panicking about how young people (20- to 40-year-olds) aren’t drinking their share of vino. Experts debate the reasons (competition from spirits and RTD cocktails) and what to change to reach them, from wine styles, grapes and alcohol levels to labels, communication via social media and celebrity branding. But all of it misses a key point.
You Should Pay Attention to This Wine Revolution in Italy's Alto Adige
In the world of Italian wine, a “cooperative” winery can be a dirty word. Not that there’s anything wrong with a group of area grapegrowers banding together to make, sell and market wine. It’s just that many a big cooperative (cantine sociale) is known for making cheap, commoditized wines on an industrial scale. But it’s not always like that.
You Should Pay Attention to This Wine Revolution in Italy's Alto Adige
22 hours ago Finding the smoothest bourbon isn’t as easy of a task as it used to be. There are just so many bourbons on the shelf. Plus we have seen a lot of sky-high ABVs this year, which can be great but certainly aren’t the easiest going down. Though the phrase is frowned upon in reviewing circles, smooth …
The Wineries Bringing a Bit of Tuscany to Italy's Deep South
When I first visited Puglia on a family vacation some 18 years ago, travel media were already calling the long, skinny heel of Italy’s boot “The New Tuscany.” Puglia has indeed become a hot destination, attracting millions of visitors annually to its vast beaches on two seas, its historic medieval and Baroque towns, its vestiges of ancient culture and its vineyards. Still, it remains Pugliese. Geographically, it’s closer to Greece than Florence.
Beauty, wine, philosophy: Italian fashion icon Brunello Cucinelli introduces a "super Umbrian " red
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Heaven is a Place Where Vermentino Meets Seafood
You gotta love Vermentino. Okay, so maybe you don’t have to. But if you, like me, prefer light- to medium-bodied whites that offer a catchy set of aromas, flavors and minerally textures—ones that change with the terroir and evolve with time—then what is there not to love? Need proof?
Carlo Mondavi's "Heaven" in Piedmont: The California winemaker and his italian wife, Giovanna Bagnasco, launch a new project
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Galardi’s New Dawn: A Southern Italian Wine Star Returns
Allegra Selvaggi wasn’t supposed to be running her family’s small wine estate in a remote corner of southern Italy. But five years ago she was summoned by her family. She left her career as a strategic sustainable energy planner in Rome to run Fattoria Galardi, their pioneering boutique winery, which had fallen on hard times.
Piedmont’s Most Exciting White Wine Story Spreads to Unexpected Places
More than a dozen years ago, Bulgarian-born enologist and wine journalist Bisso Atanassov was consulting for a Ukrainian businessman committed to planting a vineyard on the Black Sea coast east of Odessa. His client, telecom entrepreneur Eugene Shneyderis, had caught the wine bug in Spain. For his winery, called Beykush, the men chose 17 grape varieties from across Europe to cultivate on more than 25 acres.
Piedmont’s Most Exciting White Wine Story Spreads to Unexpected Places
More than a dozen years ago, Bulgarian-born enologist and wine journalist Bisso Atanassov was consulting for a Ukrainian businessman committed to planting a vineyard on the Black Sea coast east of Odessa. His client, telecom entrepreneur Eugene Shneyderis, had caught the wine bug in Spain. For his winery, called Beykush, the men chose 17 grape varieties from across Europe to cultivate on more than 25 acres.
Just Don’t Call It THAT! The Problem for Vermentino from the South of France
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Beauty, Wine, Philosophy: In Umbria with Italian Fashion Icon Brunello Cucinelli
Making great wine is hard. Making Brunello Cucinelli wine can be even harder. Over his 40-plus-year career, a rags-to-riches story set in his native region of Umbria in Central Italy, Cucinelli has built a reputation in the fashion world as the “king of cashmere” and the impresario of luxury sportswear worn by the rich, famous and stylish. In other words, the Brunello Cucinelli brand doesn’t allow for anything south of smooth, perceived perfection.
Lunch with Bacchus. Sort of.
History has been used to brand wine for centuries. So when recent excavations uncovered an 1,800-year-old Roman villa’s elaborate mosaics in a Valpolicella area vineyard, wines were sure to follow. The colorful, pristine mosaics were found in a one-acre vineyard plot divided between two modest, locally rooted vintners, who have helped pay the costs of excavating and protecting the site, as part of an agreement with the Italian government.
Sommelier Roundtable: What Makes a Great Restaurant Guest?
While the pressure is mostly on restaurant workers, in truth, a great meal is only as good as its guests. Dining out might still require a little extra patience these days, but it really takes very little to be a pleasant guest (which is surprisingly hard for some people). Wine Spectator asked 10 wine professionals from Restaurant Award-winning restaurants (from veterans to newcomers) about the types of guests they remember fondly and look forward to serving.
Carlo Mondavi’s ‘Heaven’ in Italy’s Piedmont
On a rainy June morning in the Piedmont wine region, Carlo Mondavi and his wife, Italian native Giovanna Bagnasco, walk the steep and slippery vineyards that Carlo calls “our little slice of heaven.” Spanning nine acres, their south-facing Sorì della Sorba vineyard is planted to Nebbiolo and Dolcetto on clay-limestone soils. At the top of the ridge is the couple’s farmhouse and small brick winery. Across a facing ravine is a dense, bird-filled woodland.
A Should-Be-Chic Italian White Wine
One evening during this spring’s Vinitaly fair in Verona, I met avant-garde Mount Etna winemaker Frank Cornelissen for an evening glass or two. We sat at a table with strangers under the ancient portico of the vintage, divey Osteria Sottoriva. At one point, Cornelissen proposed a blind-tasting of a white wine he had selected. From the tall, slender bottle covered in aluminum foil poured a deep-gold wine that rolled over the palate with mineral and honey notes.
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