WORDS BY BUD SCHMELING PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRAM PAULUSSEN VICTORYJOURNAL.COM An eternity removed from the iconic breaks of Kuta Beach—celebrated in Endless Summer, the Citizen Kane of surf movies—is the Regency of Jembrana, the ground zero for makepung, or Balinese buffalo racing. At the crossroads of steeplechase, animal pageantry, and agrarian festival, the annual competition celebrates the end of the rice harvest with specially bred buffalos and their jockeys careening around a dirt track.