Gabe Ulla
New York
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articles on food for wsj. mag, town and country, t, and a few other magazines. a couple of books, too.
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Articles by Gabe Ulla
Our Last Lunch at Donohue’s
After 76 years on Lexington Avenue, Donohue’s will say good-bye tonight. The tributes that have poured in since owner Maureen Donohue-Peters announced, earlier this spring, her plans to close the restaurant have made clear that New York is losing a quietly legendary place whose regulars always understood exactly what they had. We, like many others, at least understood we needed to share one more round of martinis in that room. Marcus said he’d bring his camera.
Gabe Ulla Profile and Activity
MapJul 23, 2024 MapJul 23, 2024 The 38 Essential Copenhagen Restaurants Burgers at a Noma offshoot, ’nduja miso ramen at a formative Nordic noodle shop, smoked sardines and natural wine on a buzzy jetty, a three-Michelin-starred tasting menu, and more of Copenhagen’s best By Anna Norström and Gabe Ulla ReportsMar 12, 2019 ReportsMar 12, 2019 The Paris Restaurant That Defies Categorization At Le Rigmarole, chefs Robert Compagnon and Jessica Yang attune the menu to their customers’ tastes By...
Paris Restaurant War? Hold My Foie Gras Original
On any given evening this spring in Paris’s 8th Arrondissement, you could walk around the corner from the Hôtel de Crillon and behold something many thought they would never see again. Maxim’s, the famed bistro that debuted in 1893 and hosted generations of boldface names, had its lights on and was very much open for business.
The hot new heist: Would you believe it's stealing wine?
Minutes after midnight on June 30, 2023, a man wearing a black hoodie and a red baseball cap exited a white pickup truck that had just pulled into the parking lot of Lincoln Fine Wines in Venice, California. He climbed to the top of the building, cut a five-by-three-foot hole in the roof, and rappelled directly into the retailer’s rare wines room.
Skyrocketing Wine Prices Have Created a New Crime Du Jour
Minutes after midnight on June 30, 2023, a man wearing a black hoodie and a red baseball cap exited a white pickup truck that had just pulled into the parking lot of Lincoln Fine Wines in Venice, California. He climbed to the top of the building, cut a five-by-three-foot hole in the roof, and rappelled directly into the retailer’s rare wines room.
What's on The Menu? A New Film Leaves the One Percent Well Done Original
The bucket-list restaurant where most of the action in the new satirical film The Menu takes place is fictional; so is its chef. But if you’ve given even the slightest attention to the world of fine dining over the last decade, you know Hawthorn and you know Julian Slowik. The Menu tells the story of what happens to a group of gastronomes who have made the pilgrimage to eat a meal in the hands of Slowik and his brigade. The chef, played by Ralph Fiennes, doesn’t just cook food; he tells stories.
Le Bernardin at 50: Still Going Strong
As the celebrated restaurant marks its golden anniversary, its co-founder, chef and well-known fans chart its long reign over the fine dining scene. By Gabe Ulla Nov. 8, 2022 8:30 am ET Fifty years ago this October, on Paris’s Left Bank, two siblings in their 20s opened Le Bernardin, a small seafood restaurant named after an order of monks who were also firm believers in the pleasures of the table.
The Fashion World’s Favorite Caviar Joint Is Expanding at a Rapid Pace
Founded in Paris by Russian refugee Arcady Fixon at the height of the roaring twenties, the restaurant Caviar Kaspia is in the midst of one of the most significant expansions in its history. Next month sees the debut of a Los Angeles outpost at the Melrose Place address that once housed the noted restaurant Bastide.
Is Granddadding as Rad as They Say?
This originally ran in How We Dad Now. You can read the other stories in the package here, as well as in our Summer 2022 issue. "I'm about to be the father of the bride times three," Andy García says about his summer plans. Two of the actor and his wife Marivi's four children, Daniella and Dominik, are getting married. Daniella recently gave birth to a baby girl; both she and Dominik live near their parents in Los Angeles.
Interview with Jean Imbert Plaza Athenee
Those who do not follow France’s restaurant scene will be surprised to learn that Paris was struck by two earthquakes in the summer of 2021. The first was the announcement that Alain Ducasse, the chef who has amassed more Michelin stars than anyone in history, would be stepping away from his two establishments at the iconic Plaza Athénée on Avenue Montaigne.
Review of Eat a Peach, written by David Chang & Gabe Ulla, read by David Chang
Review of Eat a Peach, written by David Chang & Gabe Ulla, read by David Chang Have you ever ordered something you enjoyed so much at a restaurant that you tried making it yourself at home? Well, I have, and although I never quite succeeded in replicating David Chang's Ginger Scallion noodles from Momofuku Noodle Bar, I'm glad I can share highlights from his autobiography in this review. David Chang is an American restaurateur, author, and television personality.
At Horses the Vibes Are as Good as the Food
Everybody in L.A. seems to be placing bets on Horses, a new Sunset Boulevard restaurant committed to a deeper nostalgia than mere prepandemic festivity, harking back to the city’s golden age. Any given night, locals pack the bar and booths in the tavern, dubbed The Drinkery. Food industry folks converge under the skylight in the Sunshine Room, featuring bright yellow banquettes and a sight line to the open kitchen.
Welcome to OnlyFans for the Food World
During the bleakest months of the pandemic lockdown, Shep Gordon was stuck at home, wondering if he should finally get back in the game. A Hollywood veteran who managed Teddy Pendergrass and Alice Cooper at the height of their careers, and who carved out time on the side to earn the title of “inventor of the celebrity chef,” Gordon was worried about his friends in the restaurant industry. Businesses were vanishing at a staggering clip. People were cooking at home more than ever before.
Chef Victoria Blamey Interview, Mena Restaurant Opening
Daniel Krieger Every time the chef Victoria Blamey opens a new restaurant, her mother makes the journey from her home in Santiago, Chile to New York City. She is adamant about keeping the streak alive, her daughter’s insistence that friends-and-family dinners are usually a mess be damned. But you can’t fault Victoria Araya for trekking over this time.
Kato, a Taiwanese Hot Spot in L.A., Goes Big
Feb. 10, 2022 8:32 am ET Now we have the tools to do things properly,” says chef Jon Yao of the 4,400-square-foot space his Taiwanese tasting-menu restaurant, Kato, just took over in downtown Los Angeles. Some might point out that Yao and his team were doing just fine at their old address, a tiny spot on L.A.’s Westside. In 2019, just three years after it opened, Kato earned a Michelin star and topped the L.A. Times’ list of the city’s 101 best restaurants, all without even having a liquor license.
Will Mother Wolf Be the Hottest Reservation in Los Angeles?
The seventh-generation Angeleno behind some of the best pasta in the United States. Chef Evan Funke made Felix Trattoria the hottest restaurant in Los Angeles. Can he do it again? January 15, 2022 Reading Time: 3 minutes “There is grand potential here,” says Evan Funke.
The T List: Five Things We Recommend This Week
A brassy new Miami brasserie, an ode to Parisian artisans — and more. Dec. 16, 2021, 9:00 a.m. ET Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com. Eat This Scenesters, Rejoice Left: Damien Hirst’s wall-mounted sculpture of crystallized marlins and squid at Sexy Fish in Miami.
A First Look Inside Lulu, Alice Waters and David Tanis's New Restaurant in Los Angeles
This week, on the heels of the 50th anniversary of Chez Panisse, the American culinary icon Alice Waters opens Lulu in Los Angeles. Located at the Hammer Museum in Westwood, the project is the chef’s first new restaurant in 40 years and first-ever L.A. venture. “But I am just a cheerleader here,” Waters says. “This is David’s show.” She’s talking, of course, about David Tanis, the New York Times food columnist and author of such seminal cookbooks as The Heart of the Artichoke.
The Best Dinner Spots in NYC and Miami
At first, Ruth Reichl doesn’t remember Moomba. “But I looked up my review, and it all came back to me,” the iconic writer says of the Greenwich Village restaurant that represented the pinnacle of New York City nightlife at the close of the last millennium. Laurence Fishburne and Oliver Stone were investors. The Hilton sisters were always there. In 1998, Leonardo DiCaprio visited four times in a single week.
The 38 Best Restaurants in Copenhagen, Denmark Original
The new Nordic kitchen has dominated the dining scene in the Danish capital for decades, ever since world-renowned restaurant Noma first opened. Today, you’ll find products from Noma Projects across the city’s restaurants (and locals’ homes) and vets of the restaurant’s kitchen (and those of sister establishments) among the scene’s notable stars.
Chef Gerardo Gonzalez Perfects the Art of Collaboration
Three years ago, when chef Gerardo Gonzalez announced that he would leave New York for a hotel gig in the Caribbean, some probably wondered why a bright young talent was cutting his career short. “I always try to resist the myopic view of things,” Gonzalez says from the Grand Cayman’s Palm Heights Hotel, which granted him carte blanche to reimagine what a dining program should look like at a luxury resort.
This Buzzy L.A. Restaurant Is Reinventing the Deli
Chefs Katianna and John Hong have been planning for this moment for years. “Over beers after work, John and I would always ask each other what kind of chefs we hoped to one day become,” Katianna, 37, says, recalling the post-shift ritual she and her husband adopted while working at some of California’s most celebrated restaurants. The couple is now answering that question with Yangban Society, a restaurant and market they are opening in September in Los Angeles’s Arts District.
With Its New Traditionware Launch, Our Place Extends Pride Well Beyond June
During an interview on the subject of pots and pans, Shiza Shahid wants to talk about Milton Friedman. The entrepreneur and founder of the cookware company Our Place first learned about the Chicago-school economist after leaving her native Pakistan to attend Stanford University in 2007. Shahid had spent her teens working in human rights, and now, thanks to a scholarship from the California institution, she was eager to gain the skills to make a greater impact on society.
8 Books That Love Reality TV as Much as You Do
In the last twenty years, reality TV has shaped our cultural landscape all the way up to influencing elections. Personally, I am a reality TV show binger. Every night my girlfriend and I bounce between shows, Married at First Sight, The Bachelorette, The Circle, or mediocre Netflix cooking shows. Cable networks and streaming platforms are saturated with shows with convoluted premises and artificial drama.
Aged Sushi, With a Glass of Natural Wine
Chef Eiji Ichimura is often referred to as the “the sushi astronaut,” a nickname he has earned from fans in New York for his singular approach to aging fish. The chef, who believes the aging process expresses seafood’s ideal flavor and texture, most recently worked at David Bouley’s TriBeCa restaurant Brushstoke, to which the New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells awarded three stars in 2012, calling Ichimura’s food “some of the most remarkable sashimi and sushi” he had ever tasted.
The Chetiyawardana Experience
Known in cocktail circles as an iconoclast and amiable agitator, Ryan Chetiyawardana’s philosophy is, counterintuitively, rooted in restraint and practicality. Back when you could still have a drink in a basement bar without fearing for your life, Ryan Chetiyawardana sat in a plush crimson booth at Silver Lyan, his recently opened cocktail spot in Washington, D.C.’s Riggs Hotel, trying not to sound like a zealot.
Jonathan Waxman on Fads, Seasonality, and Future Plans
Since it might be unfair to call Jonathan Waxman an elder statesman, it will suffice to say that he's one of the guys cooks look up to. A self-described California boy, Waxman landed in New York in 1983 after several big successes on the West Coast, and since then, he's served as a symbol of seasonal and deceptively rustic cooking.
The 25 Best Lines From GQ's Roast of Alan Richman
Yesterday evening, friends, ex-wives, food journalists, and some of the city's best chefs gathered at Le Bernardin to talk about how cheap Alan Richman is. The writer, who's won 15 James Beard awards and has had his fair share of public spats, has now been at GQ for 25 years.
Dan Barber, Renowned Chefs Draft Letter to Young Chefs
Right now Dan Barber, chef of the Blue Hill restaurants and one of the most renowned exponents of local, sustainable, and ecologically aware cuisine in the U.S., is in Lima, Peru. There, he attended the Mistura Gastronomic Festival and helped write an "Open Letter to the Chefs of Tomorrow" with colleagues that include Ferran Adrià, René Redzepi, Michel Bras, and the Peruvian giant Gastón Acurio (the full text of the letter appears at the end of the interview).
Hawa Hassan’s Recipes Highlight The Diversity of African Cuisine
I wanted to make the world smaller for people,” says Hawa Hassan, 34, of her decision in 2014 to become a food entrepreneur and tell stories about Somalia, where she was born. She felt compelled to revisit her origins, which she says she slowly lost touch with after she arrived in the United States at the age of 7, alone, in 1993. Hassan’s mother, given the chance to send one of her 10 children to Seattle, chose her eldest daughter.
David Chang on the Momofuku Empire’s Disastrous Beginning
“My husband really knows ramen, and this is not ramen.” The woman approached me one night a few months into Momofuku Noodle Bar’s existence. She didn’t give her name. She introduced herself as Let me tell you and plowed straight ahead: “I’m in the industry, my husband is Japanese, and he and I have spent many years eating around the world together.”
Why One of America’s Dreamiest Resorts Is Expanding Right Now
“I just love this ride,” says Mary Celeste Beall from the driver’s seat of a golf cart bound for The Valley, a new 15-acre leisure park at Blackberry Mountain, one of her two resorts outside of Knoxville, Tennessee. The turn off the property’s main road immediately gives way to a winding descent, past timber footbridges, waterfalls and sandstone boulders, before merging onto a woodland path that runs beneath a dense canopy of oak and pine.
EAT A PEACH | Kirkus Reviews
More life reflections from the bestselling author on themes of societal captivity and the catharsis of personal freedom. In her third book, Doyle (Love Warrior, 2016, etc.) begins with a life-changing event. “Four years ago,” she writes, “married to the father of my three children, I fell in love with a woman.” That woman, Abby Wambach, would become her wife.
5 books high performers should read this month
The book: America's First Female Serial Killer By: Mary Kay McBrayer The gist: Mary Kay McBrayer is the co-founder of the horror movie comedy podcast, Everything Trying to Kill You. In this, her first true crime novel, she dives into the life and troubled origins of Jane Toppan, a 19th-century Boston-based nurse-turned-serial-killer.
Ex-Isa Chef Ignacio Mattos Responds to Taavo Somer
In the 24 hours since news broke that Taavo Somer had cleaned house at Isa — firing pastry chef Pam Yung, sous chef José Ramirez, and head chef Ignacio Mattos — only one person has remained silent: Mattos. In a phone interview earlier this afternoon, the chef explained that he originally planned on keeping quiet, but changed his mind after reading Somer's statements on the matter to this website and the New York Times.
The T List: Five Things We Recommend This Week
A new wine bar that doesn’t skimp on the food — and more. Jan. 30, 2020, 9:00 a.m. ET Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we’re sharing things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday. You can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com. Visit This A New Dawn for Night Life in the Catskills Clockwise from top left: the Avalon Lounge; Sunshine Colony; Bills.
Don't Shoot the Messenger
Eric Wareheim wants me to pop the cork from a bottle of his Las Jaras sparkling carignan into the swimming pool. “If it goes in, you get to make a wish,” he says, explaining that all first-time visitors to his Highland Park home are required to take part in the ritual. My aim is too high, and the cork vanishes. We look around—no trace. “That’s never happened before, but we’ll count it,” Wareheim reassures me.
Restaurants and Chefs Are Saying No to Special Requests From Customers
One evening last summer, 25 out of the 129 diners visiting Alinea—a Chicago restaurant that ranks among the world’s best places to eat—made special requests to their orders in advance. Some of these were based on clear-cut food allergies, but a significant portion seemed to fall under a more amorphous category: aversion. Despite the fact that Alinea serves only elaborate tasting menus, the kitchen staff acceded to each and every ask. They had gotten used to this.
A Day in the Life of Architect David Rockwell
Over the past three and a half decades, David Rockwell and his architecture and design firm, Rockwell Group, have built a reputation for their versatility and prolific output. From vibey hotels to Broadway sets, solemn memorials to grand restaurants, each case is an opportunity to expand their repertoire. “We are obsessively not interested in repeating ourselves,” the New York–based architect says.
Sweetgreen, Pointing to Its Own Past, Hatches New Model
With a devoted following and a recent valuation of over $1 billion, the fast-casual salad chain Sweetgreen seems to be doing things right. The company’s three founders—Nicolas Jammet, Jonathan Neman and Nathaniel Ru—wouldn’t fully agree. “Right now, the experience is average or mediocre at best,” says Jammet, 34. He points to lines that can overwhelm at peak hours and the anxiety some newcomers experience when having to order on the spot.
Blackalicious' Gift of Gab on Eating Like a Big Dude
Welcome to Sound Cheque, where we sit down with one of our favorite bands to get the scoop on their city-by-city dining picks. Gift of Gab doesn't really look like a paragon of healthful eating habits, for he is a large man. But the MC — considered one of the best in the game — likes to seriously balance out his barbecue and pizza with regular visits to the Bay Area vegetarian spots he swears by.
The All-Day Music Venue from Supreme and Keith McNally Collaborators
“This building has music in its blood,” says Shane Davis, surveying the site in Gowanus, Brooklyn that will soon be known as Public Records, an all-day music venue featuring a vegan cafe, hi-fi listening lounge, and “sound room”—a 200-capacity vinyl-leaning club and live-music space. “When we found it two years ago, there was a church organ restoration shop on the ground floor and a vintage guitar shop upstairs.
How Paris Restaurant Le Rigmarole Is Upending Diners’ Expectations
Here’s the précis on Le Rigmarole, which opened in Paris last year: A young team trained in fancy restaurants is letting their hair down, serving a menu that doesn’t cost a fortune and a fair bit of natural wine to go with it; they’ve set up shop in the 11th Arrondissement, a part of town where many chefs have staged similar rebellions against traditional fine dining. Nothing new there.
Team Carbone on Ironic Food and Building an Empire
In the concluding portion of this interview with Jeff Zalaznick, Mario Carbone, and Rich Torrisi (see part one here), the team talks about ironic restaurants, how Carbone reflects Mario's personality and Torrisi Italian Specialties reflects Rich's, how to avoid making Carbone seem like a theme restaurant, and their goals for the future. Here's the interview: Would you call your restaurants ironic? JZ: Not at all. We are trying to celebrate a version of dining that we all love and admire.
Take a Ride With Peloton CEO John Foley
JOHN FOLEY is one of those entrepreneurs who insists on approachability and modesty, but when it comes to his work, he doesn’t hide his ambition. While walking to his office in New York one summer morning, he says, “If there are 100 million members worldwide...leading better, happier lives because of us, that is far beyond what Tesla and Apple can do.” He’s referring to Peloton, the fitness company he co-founded in 2012.
London Restaurant Cora Pearl Is a Welcoming Hideaway in Covent Garden
“WE HAD A little sniff that the space could turn into something really lovely,” says Oliver Milburn of the Covent Garden address that was once a chain restaurant and is now Cora Pearl, one of the hottest new tables in London.
MAD6: Live from the Symposium in Copenhagen
MAD6: Live from the Symposium in Copenhagen by For the very first time, we will be streaming live from the red tent in Copenhagen, inviting audiences across the world to join the MAD6 conversation online. Follow a dozen keynote speeches, dynamic conversations, and panels over the course of two days, August 26 & 27. Sign up to get notifications about the live stream now:
Behold Sprinkles' 24-Hour Cupcake-Dispensing ATM
Very soon, the people of Los Angeles will be able to obtain cupcakes at any time of day: wildly popular Beverly Hills, California bakery Sprinkles is now launching a 24-hour cupcake ATM called 24-Hour Sprinkles. The ATM will reportedly dispense cupcakes for both humans and dogs, Sprinkles apparel, and also cake mixes. See photos of the very pink contraption above — it has a Facebook page as well. Eater LA also shares the news that Sprinkles will be opening an ice cream shop right next door.
Food Matters
In the kitchen with chefs around the world.
Chef Kobe Desramaults on Building In De Wulf and Freedom as a Chef
When Kobe Desramaults was 23, he cut short a series of stages at restaurants around the world to return home and save his mother's restaurant. Home was Dranouter, a village in West Flanders that most would describe as being in the middle of nowhere.
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